118 HAPPY HUNTING-GROUNDS 



wait on completing a stage for our two horses to be 

 fetched off the hill or from the plough ; in those times 

 the telephone was not, and we were not prepared to 

 face the expense of sending " forbud." But little we 

 recked of delay ; all was fresh and new to us as by 

 easy stages we penetrated the enchanted land. Often 

 we had to put up with rough accommodation, and 

 plain if plentiful food ; but we consumed our eggs and 

 fish, fladbrod, rye bread, and "gammel ost," a strong- 

 smelling cheese looking like brown windsor soap, with 

 a relish and appreciation the daintiest fare would not 

 provoke in these degenerate days. 



Our quarters were by no means as clean as the 

 traveller would now be sure to find everywhere 

 on the most frequented road in Norway ; the wash- 

 ing apparatus was primitive, and baths were not. 

 What matter ! everywhere in that land of running 

 water there were pools and streams where one 

 could enjoy a refreshing dip, and make an al fresco 

 toilet. Once or twice we put our rods together 

 and tried fishing on the way, but only a few small 

 trout rewarded our efforts. Sometimes we came 

 in for very crowded quarters. One occasion still 

 remains very vividly in my memory, when in the 

 half light I awoke in our little double-bedded room 

 startled by a rustling sound, and saw a lad emerge 

 from behind the boughs which masked the open fire- 

 place. He had been slumbering peaceably upon the 

 hearthstone, and was stealing away at dawn to get to 

 his work. At another stopping-place we came in for 

 a wedding festivity, and sat up half the night dancing 

 with the bride and bridegroom and the wedding 

 guests. We did not, like the gentleman whom the 



