182 HAPPY HUNTING-GROUNDS 



named Alfheim, is not many miles as the crow flies 

 from Hvilested, and a moderately expert climber can 

 reach it by a precipitous path above Musjerd in a few 

 hours ; but this route requires a good head and sound 

 legs, and certainly would not do for a lady unless 

 she was young and exceptionally active, or a skilled 

 mountaineer. 



Our method of progress was necessarily by the 

 longest and easiest route. A good road of about twenty 

 English miles leads to Gjora, at the head of the valley, 

 crossing the river by three bridges at different points. 

 Along this we drove our sturdy little Norwegian pony, 

 which made nothing of our stolkjaerre loaded though 

 it was with three persons, a side-saddle, and our 

 luggage, which of course we had compressed into the 

 smallest possible compass. The sun was shining when 

 we started at ten o'clock, but we were not so impru- 

 dent as to go without our waterproofs, for changes 

 of weather are rapid among the mountains ; and 

 although the glass had been rising for twenty-four 

 hours, experience had taught us that this was not 

 inconsistent with the possibility of showers, or even 

 of heavy rain. Some say that in Norway it always 

 rains when the glass rises ; and although I would not 

 be a party to such a slight upon the character of the 

 mercury, I do not allow a blind faith to lull me into 

 neglect of ordinary precautions. 



Everything was late that year. Very little hay 

 had been saved, and some of it was still uncut ; and 

 the barley, rye, and oats a heavy and promising 

 crop was only just beginning to colour. Two years 

 ago at this time the fields were cleared and everything 

 was burnt up, but that was an exceptional experience, 



