396 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



absence of skins, the leaves of the forest were used for costuming, 

 and one is often reminded of this savage custom in the diversions 

 of the rural picnic party, when the leaves of the forest are woven 

 into primitive garlands and aprons. In Brazilian forests Nature 

 is especially kind to the savage, for upon the " shirt tree " is 

 grown the ready-made garment. All the native has to do is to 

 remove the bark of the tree, cut slits in it for armholes, soak and 

 soften the bark, and then place it upon his body. The plaiting 

 of mats for clothing, followed by the invention of the loom, and 

 the weaving of cloth are interesting processes connected with the 

 development of dress. 



In contrasting the close-fitting garment of the northern type 

 with the loose-fitting or* blanket type of garment in the South, 

 Prof. Starr is led to make the suggestion that this accounts for 

 the two prevailing types of dress which exist in civilized society 

 to-day. One of the great conservative elements in society is 

 woman, who stands as a useful brake upon rash and too impetuous 

 change. " The northern and southern types of dress once came in 

 conflict. The time was that of the invasions of the northern 

 barbarians upon imperial Rome. Both men and women, in the 

 ancient days of Rome, wore the southern dress. The barbarians 

 wore the tighter-fitting garments of their colder climate. The 

 southern man adopted the more convenient type, the woman did 

 not ; and so we see to-day our men in jackets with tight sleeves 

 and close-fitting trousers, while women continue to wear in a 

 modified form the dress of the sunny South flowing garments, 

 skirts and cloaks." * 



We are reminded of this southern type of dress in the spotless 

 robes and vestments of the priest and chorister; and it is not 

 difficult to see in the cap-and-gown fad, which has recently 

 attacked our colleges with the vigor of a prairie fire, a survival 

 of this classic type of dress. 



A curious costume is that of the medicine man, the most unique 

 and important individual among savage races. His object is to 

 terrorize his patient by his grotesque costume, his weird move- 

 ments and incantations, and to kill or cure as the case may be. 

 Catlin gives a picture of one and describes his movements. His 

 body and head were covered with the skin of a yellow bear, the 

 head serving as a mask, a rare and conspicuous thing to begin 

 with. " The huge claws dangled upon his wrists and ankles. In 

 his right hand he shook a frightful rattle, in the other he bran- 

 dished his medicine spear or magic wand." f The medicine man 

 ordinarily administers to his patient roots and herbs, and if these 



* Popular Science Monthly, October, 1891, p. 800. 

 f Smithsonian Report, 1885, Part II, pp. 417-419. 



