THE LONG TRAIL TO SAIN NOIN KHAN 93 



in Mongolia or, what is infinitely worse, by a life in one 

 of the prison coffins. Moreover, the spirit of mutual 

 assistance is carried further, and several times during 

 the summer when our ponies had strayed miles from the 

 tents they were brought in by passing Mongols, or we 

 were told where they could be found. 



Our camp the second night was on a beautiful, grassy 

 plateau beside a tiny stream, a tributary of the river. 

 We put out a line of traps for small mammals, but in the 

 morning were disappointed to find only three meadow 

 mice (Microtus}. There were no fresh signs of mar- 

 mots, hares, or other animals along the river, and I be- 

 gan to suspect what eventually proved to be true, viz., 

 that the valley was a favorite winter camping ground 

 for Mongols, and that all the game had been killed or 

 driven far away. Indeed, we had hardly been beyond 

 sight of a yurt during the entire two days, and great 

 flocks of sheep and goats were feeding on every grassy 

 meadow. 



But the Mongols considered cartridges too precious 

 to waste on birds and we saw many different species. 

 The demoiselle cranes were performing their mating 

 dances all about us, and while one was chasing a magpie 

 it made the most amusing spectacle, as it hopped and 

 flapped after the little black and white bird which kept 

 just out of reach. 



Mongolian skylarks were continually jumping out of 

 the grass from almost under our horses' feet to soar 

 about our heads, flooding the air with song. Along the 

 sand banks of the river we saw many flocks of swan 



