THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



The Lake Ontario and Lake Erie 

 groups lead in the acreage in fruits. 

 Over eleven thousand acres are now 

 given to growing of grapes in Ontario. 



The total rural area in fruit is 337,441 

 acres, or 17,319 acres more than in the 

 preceding year, every district sharing in 

 the increase. 



NEW YORK FRUIT GROWERS— II. 



vEAR Culture for Profit was 

 treated on by Mr. D. K. Bell, 

 from whose paper the follow- 

 ing notes are taken. 



Soil and Varieties. — I have found 

 that the best soil for pears is a clay 

 loam, that is, where the loam overlies a 

 clay subsoil. Pears will also grow and 

 produce well on what is known as a 

 gravel loam, with a clay subsoil. The 

 trees will not do well on peaty or black 

 muck soil. These tend to unhealthy 

 growth, and the fruit is of inferior qual- 

 ity. If the soil is not naturally dry, it 

 must be made so by tile drains. Trees 

 will not thrive in ground which is soaked 

 with water. Do not locate an orchard 

 on low land, but select a situation where 

 there is plenty of sunshine and free cir- 

 culation of air. Where the orchard is 

 exposed to west and northwest winds, I 

 favor windbreaks. 



In selecting trees, accept only those 

 that have good, sound roots, clean bark, 

 and have made a strong growth during 

 the past season. The following varie- 

 ties are to be preferred for a commercial 

 orchard : Standards, Clapp's Favorite, 

 Bartlett, Seckel, Sheldon, Bosc, Clair- 

 geau, Anjou and Winter Nelis. On the 

 quince, Howell, Superfin, Duchess and 

 Anjou. I will add Kieffer, although it 

 is not a favorite of mine. The varieties 

 named ripen in succession. 



Working and Planting. — The soil 

 should be thoroughly worked the year 

 before setting out the orchard. This 

 can best be done by planting corn, po- 

 tatoes, or some other hoed crop. The 



grade will then be as nearly as possible 

 natural, so that the trees may be set at a 

 uniform depth in the ground- Before 

 the tree is placed in the ground, it 

 should be trimmed of all surplus and 

 damaged roots, and the top should be 

 headed back. This heading should be, 

 at least equal to the trimming of the 

 roots, and it will do no harm if it is a 

 little more. I head back to one or two 

 buds, believing that the remaining buds 

 will push forth stronger than if a larger 

 number are left. The hole for the tree 

 should be dug large enough so that the 

 roots can be spread out without being 

 bent. If some of the surface soil is 

 thrown in first, it will do no harm. Care 

 should be taken not to plant too deep. 

 Two inches below the collar, for dwarfs, 

 and even with the collar, for standards, 

 is sufficient. Nothing is gained in too 

 deep planting, as, in the cold soil, the 

 roots will eventually come to the sur- 

 face. Fine soil should be well sifted in 

 among the roots, so that the space will 

 all be filled. For Bartlett, Clairgeau, 

 Sheldon, Bosc and Winter Nelis, 15 x 

 20 feet apart is sufficient ; Anjou, Law- 

 rence, Seckel and Kieffer should be 20 

 to 25. On the dwarf, 15 feet is suffi- 

 cient for all varieties. 



The young orchard should be thor- 

 oughly worked by planting it to some 

 hoed crop. If the fertility of the soil is 

 such that it will produce a good farm 

 crop, no manure or other fertilizer need 

 be applied for the first few years, after 

 which the ground should be enriched 

 by applying potash, phosphoric acid and 



140 



