THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



somewhat more difficult to grow to per- 

 fection. 



Soil and Preparation. 



The soil best adapted for their 

 growth is a rich gravelly loam, or warm 

 rich sandy soil with a well drained, or 

 dry sub-soil. 



It must be made very rich — no fear 

 of the ground being too rich, if the 

 manure used be not too hot or fiery. 

 In the fall, dig into your land a large 

 quantity of strong cow manure, or better 

 still, if you are where you can get it, 

 manure from a hog pen. In the follow- 

 ing spring dig your melon plot over 

 again, say about the end of April. 

 Then in May prepare for sowing. There 

 are two ways of planting followed — one 

 in hills, and the other in rows. I prefer 

 the row system because in that way you 

 can have manure more evenly distribut- 

 ed under the plants. 



Dig good deep trenches about seven 

 feet apart, throwing the earth out to 

 each side. Then fill into these trenches 

 a large quantity of good horse manure 

 mixed with old leaves. Throw on some 

 soil and mix all with a fork. This will 

 prevent the fermentation being too rapid, 

 and by this means the bottom heat will 

 be continued for a longer time, etc. 

 Put a little finely pulverized guano or 

 hen manure on top, and fill in earth on 

 top of this about 4^ inches deep and 

 make all fine and smooth with a rake. 

 Your row will then be slightly higher 

 than the level of the ground. 



Sow your seed along the center of this 

 drill, or row, about one inch deep, and 

 about two inches apart. Don't sow too 

 soon, as melons are very easily injured 

 by frost. Wait till you see the leaves 

 pretty well started on the trees, which of 

 course will vary with the season, but 

 will generally give a most reliable indi- 

 cation of the advancement of vegetation. 



When your plants are up, look out for 

 cut worms and other pests. When your 

 plants have become strong, with five or 

 six leaves, and are past the danger of 

 worms, thin out, leaving the best plants 

 about 15 inches apart. Then care- 

 fully remove the dry earth from about 

 the stems and bring up some fresh 

 moist earth from the sides and put this 

 round the plants right up to the leaves, 

 making up the row from both sides 

 about 4 feet in width — a little lower at 

 the plants than out from them — leaving 

 the surface pretty rough. Keep down 

 weeds, and water occasionally if the 

 weather be very dry. 



When the vines begin to run, nip off 

 the main vine, as it seldom bears any 

 fruit, and the strength of the plant will 

 be thrown into the fruit-bearing vines. 



When the runners stretch out, the 

 roughness on the surface will help to 

 steady them. Don't let them get twisted 

 about, and turned over with the wind, 

 better steady them with little pegs till 

 they are long enough to reach out their 

 little tendrils and take hold on each 

 other with these wonderful hands. 

 Keep the vines so spread that they will 

 evenly cover the ground, and not be 

 thick in some spots and thin in others. 



Your plot of melons should be so 

 situated as to get the sun all day. They 

 will do even better if the land slopes 

 towards the west, so that the soil will be 

 well warmed by the evening sun, and so 

 remain warm well on throughout the 

 night. 



Ripeness 



When the musk melon is ripe the rich 

 fragrance of the fruit will generally give 

 warning, and generally the color changes, 

 (but not always) and the stem will crack 

 around where it joins the fruit, and the 

 fruit will separate quite easily from the 

 stem. 



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