AUTUMN WORK IN THE GARDEN. 



moved, and after that the greatest im- 

 mediate good will follow a generous use 

 of vines. A Virginia Creeper, Ampel- 

 opsis Quinquefolia, set against the base 

 of every building, no matter how old 

 and delapidated, and at intervals along 

 every fence, will alone do wonders in 

 altering the appearance from passing 

 trains, but the effect will be greatly im- 

 proved by using a variety of hardy vines 

 such as Clematis paniculata, C. Jack- 

 manni, C. Virginiana, C graveolens, 

 Trumpet Creeper (Bignonia radicans 

 and where hardy, B. grandifiora), Bitter- 



sweet (Celastrus scandens), wild Roses 

 and wild Grapes. 



Small trees and shrubs should also be 

 freely introduced to shield the grounds 

 from the passing public as well as to 

 screen unsightly objects. 



By this means a double good will 

 have been accomplished, the general 

 appearance of the place will be raised 

 to a higher plane, and individual back 

 yards transformed into habitable gardens 

 while the chances are in favor of other 

 good results following in the wake of this, 

 as of every kind of unselfish movement. 



AUTUMN WORK IN THE GARDEN. 



F good results are desired, the fall 

 work in the garden, while not so 

 interesting as the work in the 

 spring, is fully as important. 



The hardy border should first be 

 cleaned up, by cutting and clearing 

 away the stems and tops of all herba- 

 ceous plants, and the beds given a good 

 mulch of well- rotted manure or compost, 

 made up of leafmold and manure. 

 Where this cannot be had, street sweep- 

 ings can be used, but must not be put 

 on over two inches deep. 



Hardy roses may be protected by 

 heaping leaves about them and over the 

 ground around them, with a little soil 

 thrown on top to prevent the leaves 

 from blowing away. Tender roses may 

 be protected in the same way ; but in- 

 stead of using earth to prevent the 

 leaves from scattering away, better to 

 have a lean-to, made of boards about 

 eighteen to twenty-four inches high, 

 which also sheds off the rain and snow. 

 Care should be taken to leave it open 

 at the ends, or one side, to admit air. 



Shrubs should be pruned by remov- 

 ing such thin branches as will not bloom. 



Hydrangea paniculata should be heav- 

 ily manured, and in the early spring all 

 thin branches cut away, and the other 

 wood of the past season's growth cut 

 back severely, fully one-half. This 

 treatment will result in a vigorous growth 

 and produce large clusters of bloom. 



All clematis can be cut back within 

 two feet or less of the ground, and a 

 covering of rotted manure and leaves 

 placed around them and over the ground. 



Grapevines may now be trimmed to 

 advantage, much better than late in the 

 spring. 



Fruit trees should be pruned by re- 

 moving all " water sprouts " and inter- 

 fering branches, always cutting them off 

 close to the trunk or limb. All dead 

 limbs should be removed from shade 

 trees, and where the top is too dense 

 remove some of the thin inside branches. 

 Examine all trees for nests and larvae 

 that will produce caterpillars. 



The lawns should now receive atten- 

 tion by topdressing with compost, old 

 manure or street sweepings, spreading it 

 over as evenly as possible 



The cannas, dahlias, gladioli and 



353 



