1845.] QUELPART. 357 



requiring my presence here, I despatched one of the 

 Lieutenants to go through the leave-taking ceremony, 

 offering to take charge of any letters for Nangasaki. 

 He was further instructed, to enquire most particularly 

 after my two civilian friends, and the state hat, which had 

 been promised. A telescope was sent, to be presented if 

 the hat should be produced : otherwise, not. The return 

 message was quaint, but decisive ; no hat ; no letters ; 

 many compliments ; wishing a good voyage, but ex- 

 pressing chagrin that I did not eat the breakfast pro- 

 vided for me. The Chief interpreter who came across 

 explained that the hat and feather were honourable dis- 

 tinctions, like my epaulettes, and could only be conferred 

 by the higher powers. He intimated, that now I was 

 known, the Examiner might apply to the Emperor to 

 have these things presented on my return. 



I cannot take leave of the Korean Islands without 

 recording some notice of the change, which appears to 

 have taken place, in the laws and habits of the people, 

 since the visit of the 'Alceste' in 1816; unless the 

 author of that voyage misconceived their feelings and 

 motives, in resisting any desire to land or communicate. 

 The intercourse that subsisted between the Koreans and 

 ourselves, aided by a competent Chinese interpreter, was 

 of the most courteous description ; accompanied by an 

 avowal on my part, that I did not wish to enter their 

 towns, and coupled with an assurance that my duties 

 would confine me to the coast-line, or to such eminences 

 only as they consented to my having access. 



That they feared the loss of their cattle I firmly be- 

 lieve, for on every occasion of our boats approaching the 



