Book I. AGRICULTURE IN ITALY. 53 



till the fifth year after planting. It is trained on trees, poles, and trellised roofs, over 

 paths, and different kinds of espalier rails. The poles are of barked chestnut, and the 

 lesser rods used are generally of reeds ; the latter forms a profitable article of culture on 

 the brink of water-courses for this purpose. These reeds last from one to four years, 

 according to their size. The ties used in binding the vine both on the hills and plains are 

 of willow, often the yellow or golden sort. The general maxim in pruning the vine is to 

 leave as much wood to one stool as possible, in order to prevent two shoots from proceeding 

 from one eye, in which case both are generally barren. They give no summer 

 pruning ; but, when the fruit is nearly ripe, they cut oflPthe extremities of the 

 shoots for the sake of the leaves as forage, and to admit the sun and air more 

 directly to the fruit. The pruning-hook they use {Jig. 36.) is not unlike a 

 hand hedge-bill. The fruit is gathered by women, and put into baskets and 

 hampers ; then carried to a tub or cistern of masonry, where it lies and ferments, 

 being frequently stirred, but not pressed as in France and other parts of Italy. 

 The management of the wine is not considered good ; and there are but few 

 sorts of Tuscan wine that will keep above a year. 



291. The potato, little known in Lombardy, was introduced in the hills of Tuscany 

 by Sismondi, but was little cultivated or esteemed. It is only known, he says, to the 

 gardeners of Florence and Leghorn. If not taken up about the middle of July, the 

 tubers are either burned and rotted by the heat, or they germinate at every bud. An 

 early sort, he tliinks, might be introduced both in the plain and liill culture with great 

 advantage. 



292. The hill farmers, like those of the plains, are generally metayers, and rent their 

 fanns, which seldom exceed seven or eight acres ; and the most general conditions of their 

 lease (bail), according to M. Sismondi, are the following : 1. The farmer engages to 

 cultivate the lands, and find the requisite props for the vines. 2. To advance the half of 

 the seed, and the half of the dung that is obliged to be purchased. 3. To deliver to 

 the proprietor half the crop, or sell it for his account. 4. To divide with the proprietor 

 the profit made on cattle, and to deliver a certain number of eggs, chickens, and capons 

 in lieu of that on poultry. 5. To wash the whole or a part of the proprietor's linen, 

 he finding soap. The proprietor on his part engages to advance the other half of the 

 seed, and of the manure which must be purchased ; to be at the expense of making up 

 new grounds and other radical improvements, to eflfect repairs, &c., and to find the first 

 props for newly planted vines. This contract goes on from year to year, and can only be 

 dissolved by a year's notice ; changes, however, very seldom take place. The conditions 

 in some places are more severe for the farmer ; and on oil and certain other articles he 

 only receives a third of the profits. 



29^. The culture of the mountains of Tuscany consists of the harvesting of chestnuts, 

 and the management of live stock and of forests. The chestnut trees, Sismondi is of 

 opinion, have been originally planted, but they now receive no other care than that of 

 replacing a worn out tree by a young one, and cutting out dead wood, which is done 

 more for the sake of fuel than any thing else. The fruit is gathered in November, after 

 it drops on the turf: it is eaten either in its natural state, or it is ground into meal 

 and prepared as flour. Such as are to be ground, are first kilndried ; next, they 

 are put into small bags, which hold half a bushel each, and these are beat against 

 the ground till the outer husk is removed ; they are then taken out, the outer husks 

 separated, and the chestnuts replaced, and beat as before till the inner husk comes off; 

 they are then cleaned in the wind, and sent to a corn-mill to be ground. The flour they 

 produce has no bran, and is mild and sweet, and keeps well. Lands covered with 

 chestnuts are valued, not by their extent, but by the number of sacks of fruit annually 

 produced. Chestnut flour is chiefly used in the form of porridge or pudding. In the 

 cofifee-houses of Lucca, Pescia, and Pistoja, pat^s, muflSns, tarts, and other articles are 

 made of it, and are considered delicate. 



294. The management of sheep in the mountains is rude and unprofitable, and so little 

 is mutton esteemed in Tuscany that it always sells at two or three sous a pound under 

 every other meat. The sheep are pastured all the summer under the chestnut trees ; but 

 in October, when the fruit begins to fall, they are sent to the maremmes, where they 

 remain till the May or June following, at the cost of not more than a penny a head. 

 A wretched cheese is made from the milk ; but, bad as it is, it is better than what is 

 made from the milk of goats or cows. The Tuscans, indeed, are so unwilling to believe 

 that good cheese can be produced from the latter animals, that they consider the Dutch 

 and other excellent foreign cheeses which they purchase at Leghorn, as all made from the 

 milk of sheep. 



295. Forests of timber trees cover the highest parts of the mountains. These form 

 sources of profit to the peasantry, independently of the sale of timber, which is very 

 limited, owing to the diflSculty of carriage. Hogs are pastured there, left to themselves 

 the whole year, and only sought for when wanted for the butcher. Their flesh is excellent, 



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