FROM PAKIS TO FRANKFORT ON TUE MAINE. 53 



CHAPTER III. 



FROM PARIS TO FRANIvFORT ON THE MAINE. 



Ball at the Chateau dcs Fleurs. — The Emperor's Fete-day. — The Illumination and 

 Fireworks. — Orderly Conduct of the People. — Departure for Germany. — Observa- 

 tions on the Way. — Ems. — The Casino. — Gambling. — The Promenade. — Dr. 

 Precht. — Donkey and Mule Riding. — The Valley of the Swiss. — Count Stein's 

 Tomb. — Grist-mills. — The Water-wheels. — Silver Mines. — Condition of the Peo- 

 ple. — The Theatre. — Letters and Visits. — Coblentz.— Difficulty with Bankers. — 

 Start for Frankfort. — Letters of Credit preferable to Cash. — Conversation with 

 Passengers. — Notes by the Way. — Arrival at Frankfort. — Letters of Introduction. 

 — Americans in Frankfort. 



August 1-1. — Arrived in Paris at six o'clock in the morning, aft- 

 er having traveled almost the whole night. I was busily engaged 

 the whole day in writing answers to my correspondents. In the 

 evening, hearing that a public ball was to be given at the Chateau 

 des Fleurs, I determined to see what such a thing was in Paris. 

 The ball was given in the open air, in a garden most beautifully 

 illuminated with lamps of all colors and descriptions. Some were 

 shaped like flowers, and, as such, were scattered profusely among 

 the shrubbery ; others represented garlands, and were festooned 

 among the trees, creating a perfect blaze of light. Then there 

 were gas-lights nestling in among the flowers, glittering like so 

 many dew-drops. At the farther end of the avenue was a fine 

 pagoda for the music ; this was also most brilliantly illuminated. 

 The whole, when viewed from an elevated platform, had a most 

 entrancingly beautiful effect. But the company was not such as 

 we would like our families to associate with. Most of the females 

 were grisettes^ each of whom, at the tones of the inspiring band, 

 seemed to forget for the moment her cares and troubles, and to 

 have but one idea — that of excelling her rivals in the dance. 

 After gazing for a time upon this scene of wild gay ety, I returned 

 home much fatigued. 



August 15. — To-day I intended to leave Paris ; but as it is the 

 Emperor's fete-day, and there will be grand illuminations in the 

 city, I have determined to remain over one day. 



Evening has arrived. Carriages have been forbidden to go to 



