56 GRAPE CULTUKE AND WIXE-JIAiaNG. 



We took a promenade after dinner, and passed into tlie Casino, 

 where there are two lui'ge gaming - tables, around which were 

 crowded numerous spectators and betters, among whom I observed 

 several ladies, throwing down their coins on the red or black. I 

 was told that, a short time since, a count lost all he had and blew 

 his brains out, while a more lucky individual broke the bank and 

 won 52,000 thalers. But I soon left, as I did not expect to be 

 lucky like the latter, nor want to fare like the former. 



August 19. — A beautiful strain of music awoke me from a most 

 pleasant sleep to a most beautiful morning. The band, composed 

 of forty musicians, paid by the Duke, plays every morning from 

 six to eight o'clock. Hastily putting on my clothes, I went upon 

 the promenade, which was crowded with genuine patients, and 

 pretty patients who washed to attract attention by their apparently 

 dehcate health, but in reality showed themselves to make a good 

 match. I was much amused by the various manoeuvres of, the 

 mammas, who were on the qui vive not to let their inexperienced 

 daughters make a blunder. 



The day was passed in visiting the grounds and neighborhood, 

 and in forming acquaintances. We met here our sincere and good 

 old friend. Dr. Precht, with whom an appointment had previously 

 been arranged by telegraph. He was accompanied by his lady. 

 Our meeting jDroved a mutual gratification. After partaking of a 

 good dinner, accompanied by a few bottles of the best wine the 

 cellar of the Duke could furnish, we passed the remainder of that 

 day admiring the beautiful promenades, rapt sometimes in the en- 

 ticing charms of music, or beholding with admiration the loveli- 

 est beauties of all nations who gather here. 



August 20. — In the morning, at six o'clock, wo were all up to 

 take a donkey-ride and see the surrounding country. The custom 

 here is to ride donkeys. Those destined for ladies have on them 

 a kind of arm-chairieaddle, well wadded, open on one side, and 

 with a back on the other. The color of the cover is a gay red, 

 and the whole concern is very convenient. This is placed on a 

 small donkey, hardly larger than a Newfoundland dog, who trots 

 off with his burden with the greatest seeming ease. The ladies 

 were delighted with their long-eared chargers and their easy gait. 



Each donkey has a driver, who remains close behind the ani- 

 mal to quicken its speed or guide it. This latter operation is done 

 by twisting the donkey's tail to the right or to the left, just as he 

 is wished to go. Our party was composed of three ladies, myself, 



