96 GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE-RLA.KING. 



at last I fainted -when the train stopped. After I liad recovered 

 a little, the Consul General of Holland, who was in the train, and 

 who kindly assisted me in my agony, asked me what I had eaten. 

 As soon as I told him 1 had taken some Asti, he said that was 

 the cause of my illness, and that it had the same effect upon all 

 strangers, as it is badly fermented, and frequently the peasants 

 put honey in to make it sweet. Therefore I warn all my readers 

 never to drink Asti wine, and then journey in the cars. 



Much weakened and fatigued, I arrived in Genoa, when, to my 

 annoyance and sorrow, I found that the steamer for Civita Yec- 

 chia had not another berth, and that even the next steamer, which 

 will start only in five tlays, is not certain to be able to accommo- 

 date us with berths. The season advances rapidly; the grapes 

 will be picked in a few days in the south of France and in Spain ; 

 therefore I have resolved to leave Eome and NajDles un visited, 

 as I can, through friends, order the cuttings and trees. This is 

 all I can do for my readers and those who have engaged vines ; 

 for as to making wine as these jDcople, God forbid ! They are as 

 far back in this art as are the Mission Indians in California. I 

 have resolved to embark with the first steamer for Marseilles, and 

 from there go on to Spain and Portugal, where I will be in season 

 to see the curing of the raisins, which is very essential knowledge 

 for California, as this will form a large profit to it. 



Septemher 10. — I went to engage my passage for Marseilles, and 

 here again I met with difficulty about my passport ; for, notwith- 

 standing that it was vised by the minister at Turin, it was nec- 

 essary to have it vised by the Consul at Genoa. I was obliged 

 to submit, and took my passport to the Consul, Mr. Paterson, who 

 received us cordially, and vised it without charge. He is ex- 

 pecting his successor daily. 



Before I leave Genoa I will add that this was the ancient seat 

 of the pirates, who lived here in perfect security, accumulating 

 immense wealth. To quiet their conscience, they put much of it 

 in churches and church ornaments. There are a great many 

 churches here, built of the most beautiful marble, having richly 

 frescoed walls, and gold and silver vessels innumerable. Traces 

 of magnificent palaces still exist. This place suffers much on ac- 

 count of our troubles. The people seem content with their pres- 

 ent ruler, Victor Emanuel. 



Seplewher 11. — At six o'clock this evening we embarked for 

 Marseilles. During the night some wind arose, and when I went 



