SPAIN: WINE, IIMSINS, AND OLIVES. 115 



CHAPTER VIII. 



JOURNEY THROUGH SPAIN: WINE, RAISINS, AND OLIVES. 



Departure for Spain. — Delay for Passports. — Country between Bordeaux and Bay- 

 onne. — Shepherds on Stilts. — Bayonne. — Loading Revolvers. — Napoleon at 

 Hand. — Start by Diligence for Madrid. — The Diligence. — The Driver and the 

 Mules. — The Postillion. — On Spanish Frontier. — Ascent of the Pyrenees. — Des- 

 olate Aspect of the Country. — Breakfast. — Water and Towel. — Another Inspec- 

 tion of Baggage. — A Municipal Misunderstanding. — Burgos. — The Railway. — 

 Passengers bound for a Bull-fight. — Delay. — Train full. — Passengers left behind. 

 — Change Cars. — Delay again. — Refreshments. — Arrival at Madrid. — Our Hotel. 

 — Compassionate Waiter. — The Fair. — The Royal Palace. — The Prado". — The 

 Fountain. — General Description of the Countiy traversed. — Product. — Execrable 

 Wines. — Leave Madrid for Malaga. — Delay. — Difficulty about Baggage. — Final- 

 ly settled. — Off at last. — Stopped again. — One Passenger too many. — A Discus- 

 sion. — The extra Child. — A Night Ride. — Morning. — Beggars. — Vines appear. 

 — Ordinary Spanish Wines very poor. — The Boy again. — Building a Railway. — 

 Barren Countiy. — A beautiful Valley. — Dinner at Victoria. — Arrival at Granada. 

 — See the City. — Our Carriage. — The Sights of Granada. — Beggars. — Start for 

 Malaga. — Notes by the Way. — Malaga. — Wine and Raisins. — Making Raisins. — 

 The Drying-grounds. — Picking and Packing. — Malaga Wines. — Vinegar-making. 

 — Fig Culture. — Horse-fight. — Apprehensions of Damages. — Manufacture of Ol- 

 ive Oil. — Cotton and Iron Manufactories. — Buy Plants. — Goat-milk. — Passports 

 again. — Depart for Alicante. — Aspect of the Coast. — Alicante. — Barcelona. — 

 Wine-making. — Leave for Paris, via Marseilles and Lyons. — Arrival at Paris. — 

 Give up Project of visiting Greece and Egypt. — Start for Home, via England. — 

 Arrive in America. 



Septemher 19. — We ■were very much annoyed by tlie trouble 

 we had in getting our passports vis^d. Our consul shuts up his 

 office at three o'clock, and if an unfortunate American should not 

 arrive at that hour, no matter who he be, there is an end of it, 

 he has to wait twenty -four hours longer, for none of the other 

 consuls will vise his passport before seeing that of the American 

 consul. At eleven o'clock we went to our consul's office, but 

 found him absent. The lad in attendance told us that he was 

 maybe sick, and at his house. We persuaded the lad to stamp 

 our passports, that we might afterward take them to the consul 

 and have them signed. This he did, and then asked us for eleven 

 and a half francs, which is more than we had ever given. We 

 went to the consul's house, where, after knocking and ringing vio- 

 lently, the door was opened by some invisible hand ; we walked 



