SPAIN : WINE, RAISINS, AND OLIVES. 121 



houses have no windows to them except some few ; the means of 

 transportation is by mules, donkeys, and miserable two-wheeled 

 carts. The cart-wheels arc made wholly of plank, and then an 

 iron tire is put on. AVc saw neither carriages nor wagons, but 

 we met now and then a large two- wheeled car, with eight to six- 

 teen mules hitched on, one in front of the other, stretching out a 

 long way. 



On our left I saw men working on the railway which is eventu- 

 ally to go from Bayonne to Madrid. Even this enterprise is car- 

 ried on by Frenchmen. 



We sped on at the expense of the lungs and whip of the driver 

 and conductor. Neither the one nor the other were spared. I 

 thought that the whip bill would be very dear to the company, 

 but I learned that the driver furnishes his own whip. We ar- 

 rived in a dirty little town, where, to our great astonishment, we 

 were told to get out to have our baggage again inspected. I tried 

 to ascertain the reason for twice inspecting your baggage in the 

 same country, but I was unsuccessful. "It must be done;" that 

 was all I could learn. After inspecting us as well as our trunks, 

 they permitted us to go on. We almost got ourselves in trouble 

 before leaving this place ; for, as we were going along its street at 

 a sharp walk, up jumped a man of authority telling the driver to 

 stop, and accusing him of trotting in the street. The conductor, 

 driver, and postillion all protested against this false accusation. 

 A dispute arose ; high words ensued ; and then the man of au- 

 thority threatened to sue the conductor, driver, postillion, and 

 even the passengers. Hearing this, and foreseeing the little chance 

 of justice here, I suggested to the conductor to put an end to all 

 lawsuits by driving on, and this time at full speed. He took the 

 hint, and away we went, scattering all the men of authority right 

 and left, none venturing to stop us. That was putting an end to 

 a lawsuit pretty quick, and for once again we were out of trouble. 

 The country through which we passed was just the same as I have 

 already described above. 



September 22. — ^We arrived at Burgos, at the railway station, at 

 four o'clock in the morning. Here our whole diligence, baggage 

 and all, except passengers, was hoisted upon a car, and fastened to 

 it. We were furnished seats in the cars. I was very much as- 

 tonished at seeing such a great number of people at the station, 

 and especially so, because Burgos did not seem large enough to 

 furnish so many travelers. There was an immense mass o£men, 



