130 GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE-MAKING. 



was made up in charges. The conductor did not leave us much 

 time to dispute the charges, but hustled us into the diligence, and 

 away wc went. Our road still led us through many beautiful 

 olive and vine plantations. The boy settled the right to the seat 

 by taking up the largest half of it. Night soon set in and veiled 

 the scenery from our view. As darkness came on, the boy re- 

 turned to his mother's lap, to my great relief, for when he went 

 to sleep I only had to support half of him. Arrived at Jean, sev- 

 eral passengers left us, and the lady with her little boy went into 

 the Kotonde. . Her place was taken by a gentleman, and from 

 here we enjoyed a little more comfort. 



We entered Granada at ten o'clock in the morning. It is an 

 old Moorish town, has quite a considerable population, and, from 

 what I could see, was quite thriving. Its produce is olives, oil, 

 wine, hemj), and lead. This latter article is found in quite large 

 quantities in the neighborhood. The hotels are miserable, and 

 their prices exorbitant, as myself and fellow-passengers can all 

 testify. 



Sepiemher 24. — We were informed that the stage would only 

 leave at seven in the evening, so we would have time to see ev- 

 ery thing. I went to a hotel, engaged a guide, and ordered him 

 to get me saddle-horses to see the celebrated Alhambra. He soon 

 returned, informing me that he could not get saddle-horses, but 

 that he had engaged a carriage for three dollars. Informing me 

 that the stable where the carriage was lay on the way to the Al- 

 hambra, I thought that we might walk to it. He advised me to 

 do so, saying that it would save time. This phrase " save time" 

 sounded pleasantly in my ear, for it was so long since I had last 

 heard it. It did not astonish mc, for our guide, who was a young 

 Spaniard, had lived some time in America. 



What was our astonishment and indignation on seeing our car- 

 riage, which was no more or less than a very old two-wheeled 

 Spanish cart, without springs. It had two boards on the inside 

 for seats, with rags for cushions, held up on the sides by ropes. 

 After some grumbling we got in. The concern was drawn by a 

 large bony mule, led by the driver, who walked alongside, and 

 occasionally gave him a poke in the ribs with the butt of his 

 whip, which had a nail in its end. As we rode in the streets we 

 looked out to sec if any one was looking at us, but no one paid 

 any attention to our "carriage," so we came to the conclusion 

 that it was the customary mode of traveling here. 



