JOIIANN CARL LEUCUS ON WINE-MAKING. 203 



5. Boiling them by steam. 



The maturity of the grapes is indicated by the berries attain- 

 ing their perfect color and clearness, and beginning to get wrin- 

 kled ; by their skin getting thin, the stones loosening easily, and 

 becoming darker in color ; by the pedicles darkening, wrinkling, 

 and letting the grapes droop. 



The gathering of the grapes can be done at all hours of the 

 day, and in all kinds of weather. If done on rainy days, more, 

 but weaker wine, and less well colored, will be produced. If the 

 production of the best wine be an object, the grapes must not be 

 gathered until the dew has dried off. If the grapes are very 

 sweet, however, this makes no difference ; likewise if effervescent 

 wines are the object. 



The most profitable way is to have wooden tubs that will not 

 let the juice escape, and to be careful to cut the grapes off with a 

 pair of scissors, so that no berries get wasted. 



If the quality of the wine be no especial consideration, all the 

 grapes, no matter whether ripe or not, are crushed together. It 

 is different, however, if a good wine is wanted. In this case they 

 must be picked out, and the more carefully the better the wine 

 is required to be. 



As the stalks give the wine an unpleasant harsh taste, it is well 

 to separate them from the berries before the pressing. Only in 

 such cases it is desirable to leave them if the grapes have too lit- 

 tle acid and sour parts, but many mucilaginous ones. If the wines 

 are destined for the fabrication of cognac, nothing is taken off, as 

 all the parts make alcohol, and the acid matter does no harm to 

 it, remaining in the still. 



There are different modes of picking off the grapes : 



1. By the hand only, 



2. By a wicker frame, with small holes through which the pick- 

 ed-off berries fall into the tub. 



3. By the fork, which is of wood, 17 to 24 inches long and 

 three fourths of an inch thick, parting in the middle into three 

 branches. This instrument is moved about in the tub filled with 

 grapes, holding it with one hand by the handle, with the other 

 by one of the three prongs. The stalks are thereby separated 

 from the berries and taken out. 



Crushing and Pressing the Grapes. 



The first is usually done in the vineyard, in a tub placed in a 

 slanting position, by " treading'^ them with the feet, or by crush- 

 ing with a wooden pestle. In the first case, wooden shoes, well 

 cleaned, are put on. 



If the juice is to be directly separated from the stones and 

 skins, the tub must have holes in the bottom to let it flow out, 

 leavmg those inside. In the Ehine district the treading method 

 has been generally adopted, because the aroma, being mostly held 



