COOKERY. 123 



outside dried for grating. If for boiling in any liquid, 

 the first way is best. When these fruits are cheap, a 

 proper quantity should be bought and prepared ivs 

 above directed, especially by those who live in the 

 country, where they cannot always be had; and they 

 are perpetually wanted in cookery. 



When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other pur- 

 poses, contrive to have pudding, custard, &c. to employ 

 the yolks also. Should you not want them for several 

 hours, beat them up with a little water, and put them 

 in a cool place, or they will be hardened and useless. — 

 It is a mistake of old, to think that the whites made 

 cakes and puddings heavy; on the contrary, if beaten 

 long and separately, they contribute greatly to give 

 lightness, are an advantage to paste, and make a pretty 

 dish beaten with fruit, to set in cream, &c. 



If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook 

 should be charged to be very careful not to let the tin 

 be rubbed off, and to have them fresh done when the 

 least defect appears, and never to put by any soup, 

 gravy, &c. in them, or any metal utensil; stone and 

 earthen vessels should be provided for those purposes, 

 as likewise plenty of common dishes, that the table-set 

 may not be used to put by cold meat. 



Tin vessels if kept damp, soon rust, which causes 

 holes. Fenders, and tin linings of flower-pots, &c. 

 should be painted every year or two. 



Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed 

 red v/are, by which a strong poison is produced. Some 

 years ago the death of several gentlemen was occasion- 

 ed at Salt-hill, by the cook sending a ragout to the 

 table, which she had kept from the preceding day in a 

 copper vessel badly tinned. Vinegar, by its acidity 

 does the same, the glazing being of lead or arsenic. 



The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is 

 in a stone jar on ajiot iron hearth: or by putting the 

 vessel in a saucepan of water, called a waterbath. 



If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suffer- 

 ed to boil over, the strength is lost. 



In the following and indeed all other receipts, though 

 the quantities may be as accurately directed as possible. 



