COOKERY OF THE GROUSE 273 



marinading and larding given below. Except in soup, 

 old birds of all the three kinds are very nearly hopeless, 

 and should not be attempted. And though in the 

 abstract most, if not all, of the methods of what may 

 be called applied grouse-cookery are applicable to 

 them, it is well to remember that the extremely strong 

 flavour above referred to marries itself but awkwardly 

 to miscellaneous additions, and is almost impossible 

 simply to disguise with them. Indeed, it is noteworthy 

 that even French cookery books do not as a rule 

 meddle much with the coq de bruyere, but prefer him 

 plain. Nor does any of the tribe make a very good 

 devil. 'Tickler,' indeed, in "the Nodes Ambrosiaiue, 

 avoucheth that even eagle's thigh is good devilled ; but 

 the context does not inspire complete confidence in 

 the good faith of the sage of Southside at that moment. 

 On the whole, it may be laid down that black-game 

 and capercailzie (the latter when young and in very 

 good condition) are best roasted, ptarmigan stewed or 

 converted into soup. But I must own that I have 

 eaten roast ptarmigan which left the room (at least 

 the bones did) without a stain on their character 

 which were ' white birds ' as much metaphorically as 

 literally. 



With these preliminary remarks and cautions as 

 U) the outlying varieties we may turn to the cooking 



T 



