COOKERY OF THE GROUSE 275 



two centuries earlier. As for the currant jelly I think it 

 hardly survives now, but for people who like currant 

 jelly with flesh or fowl it is not bad with grouse, while 

 as usual cranberry or rowan-berry jelly is better still. 

 German and American cooks also sometimes re- 

 commend //;//-sauce. But in connection with the 

 general direction to ' cook them like partridges ' I am 

 tempted to acid two receipts for dressing that bird 

 which I did not know at the time of writing on it, but 

 which seem admirably adapted to grouse also, and 

 which come from the collection referred to above. 

 They appear in La Cuisine de Saute, an elaborate 

 work in three volumes written by M. Jourdain Le 

 Cointe, and revised in the year 1790 by a medical 

 practitioner of Montpellier. This latter man of art, by 

 the way, seems during that stirring time to have been 

 as unpolitically engaged as his brother savant \\\w was 

 indifferent to the Revolution because he had an un- 

 precedented number of irregular verbs all nicely 

 conjugated and written out in his desk. 



The first of these receipts is called a la Sultanc, 

 and is described as one of the favourite dishes of 

 Venetian cookery ; the other, also asserted to be 

 Italian in origin, is a la ccndre. 



For birds a la Sultanc you take four, and sacrifice 

 the least promising of the quartette to make i\farcetw 



T 2 



