COOKERY OF THE GROUSE 279 



such second growths as Cos Destournel or Durfort. 

 Not that Burgundy (again just short of the very best) 

 goes ill with grouse, but that claret goes better. Alexis 

 Soyer, who, though I have heard good judges declare 

 him to have been a very overrated cook, said some 

 excellent things, soon to be quoted, about grouse, re- 

 commends a ' little sweet champagne ' with grouse. It 

 was spoken like a Frenchman. 



The accompaniments of roast grouse, besides those 

 already mentioned, are not very numerous. The liver 

 of the birds cooked separately, pounded and spread 

 upon the toast on which they are served, with 

 butter, salt, and cayenne, is often recommended. 

 Most people are unhappy without gravy ; for myself 

 I think if the grouse is properly done, not too much 

 and not too dry, it is better without any. The favourite, 

 and to the general taste indispensable, bread crumbs 

 are often horribly ill cooked, and unless very well 

 cooked are the reverse of appetising. Soyer, as above 

 reported by a good Scotch writer on cookery, who 

 calls herself ' Jenny Wren,' liked to eat grouse, which 

 he justly declared to vary inexplicably in flavour from 

 year to year, ' absolutely by themselves with nothing 

 but a crust of bread,' and this shows a purity of taste 

 which makes one almost forgive him his sweet cham- 

 pagne therewith. Watercress is as good with grouse 



