282 COOKERY OF THE GROUSE 



of the very best things that it is possible to eat, and can 

 be accompanied by an almost unlimited variety of sauces 

 or gravies, from the plainest to the most elaborate. 

 The same hyperbole may be used of grouse soup when 

 it is what grouse soup should be. There are consider- 

 able variations in the methods of preparing it; and, as in 

 most cases, it is necessary to look to the end or object. 

 Philosophically considered, the whole subject of soup 

 may be divided into three parts. There is soup more 

 or less clear, such as is probably at the present moment 

 chiefly in favour as being most restorative in effect and 

 most elegant in consumption. There is a puree of 

 creamy texture, thick, but not containing any positive 

 solids. And lastly there is the old-fashioned broth 

 with solids in it, which is more an olla or stew than 

 a soup strictly speaking, and which, though a little 

 robust and massive for our modern dinners, is one of 

 the most satisfactory varieties of food for reasonably 

 hungry people. The first of these forms is that in 

 which grouse soup is least commonly presented, and 

 to which perhaps this bird lends itself least characteris- 

 tically. It is, however, good in its way, and I never 

 saw a better receipt for it than that which is given by 

 Mrs. Henry Reeve. You take old, but quite fresh 

 birds, which may be either grouse or black-game, or 

 (I should add) ptarmigan. You add water at the rate 



