290 COOKERY OF THE GROUSE 



brandy, which it is whispered is sometimes used, 

 provoke undue thirst and general discomfort. A sound 

 red Bordeaux with flavour and some body for brown 

 meats, and a good (not an acid or wiry) Chablis or 

 Pouilly for white, are probably the best things for 

 the purpose. And I must again praise the French 

 lady above cited for recommending equal parts of 

 stock and wine as the main body of salmis sauce. 

 The mixture is added to a foundation of well-warmed 

 and browned butter and flour, plenty of seasoning, 

 including herbs, some shallot rather than onion, 

 and at the' last a little lemon juice, remembering the 

 warnings above given. Nothing more but patience, 

 careful watching, and still greater care when the game 

 has been put in the mixture never to let it boil, 

 is required to make a good salmis. But all this 

 is required, and without it the thing cannot be a 

 success. 



There is no perceptible difference between the 

 better class of receipts for hashing grouse and those 

 for a salmis of it. If there is any, it is that the hash 

 gravy may be a little thinner ; but that is a matter of 

 taste, and it is not uncommon to find cookery books 

 in which the titles of the receipts for the two processes 

 might be changed and little or no harm done. The 

 fact is that ( salmis ' (a term of which even the great 



