BULBOUS FLOWERS 93 



damaged or dried, it receives a serious check, and will only produce a 

 weak growth. 



"I lift my bulbs early, and keep them cool and moist in cocoa fibre, 

 and plant them again not later than December, when root action at once 

 commences, and not much time is lost. And I think that there is not 

 much doubt that the late planting of Martagon Lilies, and after root 

 action has been checked, is the cause of their partial failure the first 

 season. Good, sound imported bulbs of Japanese Lilies, which now arrive 

 in excellent condition during the early part of the year, may be planted 

 as late as March and April with every confidence as to the result, pro- 

 vided they are in a fresh and sound condition for planting when received. 



" As a general rule, when planting bulbs, they should be put in the 

 soil about three times their own depth ; the soil should be well dug, 

 and it is beneficial if a little peat, turfy loam, leaf soil, and sea sand be 

 added. This latter (the sea sand) should be placed all round the bulbs ; 

 in fact, we use sea sand to a very large extent, generally covering the 

 bulb entirely with it. It is always moist, and being of a gritty nature 

 prevents the attacks of slugs and grubs, and also keeps the soil from 

 setting fast round the bulbs. 



" I would recommend, when planting Lilies amongst Rhododendrons 

 and shrubs, the using of old tubs cut in half with the bottoms knocked 

 out. They can be sunk in the beds and filled with a good mixture 

 of soil, and will serve to keep the roots of the shrubs and trees from 

 interfering with the bulbs. Lilies planted in this manner are generally 

 very successful." 



Mr. Wallace makes a few remarks about growing Lilies in pots, 

 selecting for this purpose such kinds as L. auratum and its varieties, 

 speciosum and its varieties, longiflorum, Hansoni, excelsum, umbel- 

 latum, candidum, Henry i, and Wallictiianum superbum: "The bulbs 

 should be placed in pots about two and a half times their diameter 

 and two inches below the surface of the soil. Good turfy loam, 

 peat, and sand make an excellent compost. Plunge the pots in 

 ashes outside under a wall, or in a cold frame ; and as soon as root 

 action has well commenced, take them into the greenhouse as required. 

 When the bulbs are well rooted, care must be exercised in watering ; 

 for, as the pots are full of roots, if once they get dry, serious damage is 

 quickly done. Give auratum plenty of shade and moisture ; the variety 

 platypliyllum is a noble pot plant, and very reliable. After flowering 

 they should be plunged outside in a cool, shady border ; and when the 

 foliage has quite died down, they should then be stored for the winter 

 in a cool frame or outhouse. In early spring they should be gone over, 

 and fresh soil added and renewed." 



The Muscaris, or Grape Hyacinths. These are charming little 

 plants, producing heads of bright blue, beaded bells in early spring; 

 they are suitable for the rock-garden or sloping bank. The stronger 

 forms may also be naturalised in the grass. M. atlanticum, M. neglectum, 

 M. armenaicum, M. botryoides, M. paradoxum, M. prascox, and M. roce- 

 mosum are beautiful kinds. M. moschatum the Musk Hyacinth is 

 valuable for its delicious perfume, while M. comosum monstrosum the 



