ROSES 



still, trenched. When gritty material, sand, burnt garden refuse, &c., 

 is at hand intermix this with the soil, unless the latter is sandy. Whilst 

 this soil is settling down make the cuttings from growths that bore the 

 first or summer flowers. Where possible they should have a heel, i.e. 

 a piece of the old stem attached. 



The cutting may be of any length, but five to six inches is about 

 right. Smooth over the heel with a sharp knife, remove all foliage save 

 the topmost leaf-stalk, but do not cut away any leaf-buds. The cut- 

 ting is now ready for planting. Where a heel cannot be secured, cut 

 the end just below an eye or leaf -bud. The wood must be quite hard. 



AUTUMN ROSE CUTTING PROPERLY 

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IMPROPERLY 

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As the different kinds are made, tie into bundles, and lay them in boxes 

 of moist sand or soil, and keep them in a shed. When all are made 

 they should be planted. Take out a trench of the prepared bed one foot 

 wide, and the depth of a spade. Cut down a wall of soil as perpen- 

 dicular as possible. At the bottom of this wall of soil put an inch of 

 sand or old cocoanut fibre, then stand the end of the cutting on the 

 sand, and lean them against the wall of soil, the cuttings being about 

 one and a-half inches apart or more, if there be plenty of room. Many 

 prefer to dibble the cuttings in with a dibbler, which is often disastrous, 

 as the cuttings hang, i.e. do not touch the bottom of the hole. It is 

 much better to dig the ground as advised. When the row is completed, 

 gently place half the soil to the cuttings, then tread firmly with the foot, 



