ROSES 121 



Amateurs would find this Rose profitable to grow, especially if re- 

 tarded so that the plants flowered about the end of May and early June 

 when Roses are scarce. This can be done by pruning late and keeping 

 air in the house night and day. We have seen the door made in two 

 sections so that the lower half is kept always open, thus allowing a 

 current of air to enter without a draught being caused. 



Preparing a Border for Roses under Glass. Allusion has been 

 already made to this work. When it is decided to plant out all Roses 

 (and we strongly advise this) prepare the border in the same way, even 

 for dwarf growers. Roses glory in good loam, but they detest stagna- 

 tion, hence the need for drainage either natural or artificial. An 

 investment in two or three cartloads of loam will well repay the grower 

 of indoor Roses. 



Roses in Small Greenhouses. In a small structure where other 

 plants are grown, Roses should be in pots or tubs. If there are no cold 

 draughts the hardier section can be cultivated. Such plants as have been 

 grown for twelvemonths outdoors in pots are the best for the beginner. 

 The pots are full of roots, which is the main secret of success. Sup- 

 posing the beginner wishes to grow a few pot Roses let him either 

 purchase established plants in six-inch or eight-inch pots or bushes in 

 October and pot them up himself. Prepare some compost in September, 

 and this should consist of three-parts loam, one-part well-rotted manure, 

 preferably from the cowyard, not fresh but one year old. Then add a 

 little artificial manure at the rate of a six-inch potful to a wheelbarrow- 

 load of soil. Mix all well together, and let it remain in a rain-proof open 

 shed until required. When plants are received in October, cut off all 

 foliage, trim back the growths to one and a-half to two feet, shorten the 

 roots a little, and smooth off jagged ends, and they are ready for potting. 

 Keep them in the shade until potted. Prepare some eight-inch pots by 

 washing them clean inside and out, place about one and a-half inches of 

 drainage in bottom, and a little well-rotted manure over the crocks. Take 

 the plant in left hand, carefully arrange the roots to prevent cramping, 

 and with a wooden trowel place some of the compost among the roots. 

 Ram the soil about the roots firmly with a potting stick, then put in 

 some more soil, give another ramming, and the operation is complete 

 when the soil reaches the rim of the pot. Keep the tops well syringed, 

 but do not water the roots for a day or two, and then only give one good 

 watering. Plunge the plants in some ashes outdoors unless a cold pit is 

 available, then it is better they should be kept in this, with the light 

 off, unless frost or heavy rains intervene. Prune the plants in February, 

 cutting them back to four or five inches from the top of the pot. Keep 

 lights off on mild days, but put them on every night. Neither let the 

 soil get quite dry nor over water. As new growths appear keep the 

 plants well apart, and fumigate with tobacco sheets when green-fly is 

 seen. It is not necessary to keep the plants in pits, but it is advisable, as 

 then one is able to prune earlier without danger of new shoots being 

 injured. Simple pits may be made with turf walls, and any handy man 

 can make a light, or the parts can be purchased and nailed together. By 

 May there will be fine flowers on these plants. Plunge outdoors in full sun 



