THE GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY 143 



and the side of the pot. The actual potting is then performed by taking 

 a handful of the coarsest of the soil and placing it immediately over the 

 crocks, then further adding sufficient soil so that the upper part of the 

 ball of earth will be about half an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill 

 in the soil around the sides, pressing it down firmly and evenly. If 

 cavities are left, failure will probably result. In pressing down the 

 soil, particularly if a lesser space than an inch is allowed, a piece of 

 wood, such as a lath, will be useful. The sharp edges of it should be 

 smoothed down, otherwise the roots may be injured. The potting 

 operation is complete when the new soil is worked all around, and the 

 old ball of earth slightly covered with it. Allow half an inch or so 

 from the level of the rim of the pot to the old ball, but for large pots 

 give an inch space. When potting is completed, well water the plant 

 through a rose to settle the soil thoroughly in its place, and, where it 

 can be managed, newly potted plants are benefited by being kept rather 

 closer for a few days until the roots recover from the check they have 

 experienced. When several cuttings and seedlings are together in one 

 pot, the operation of separating and putting them into single pots is 

 known as 



Potting Off. This should take place before the roots get much 

 matted together, otherwise bruising will result when they are disen 

 tangled. Potting off means turning the ball of earth out of the pot, 

 and singling out each plant with as little damage to the roots as possible. 

 Then repot in suitable soil, burying the naked stem of seedlings almost 

 to the cotyledons. For cuttings or seedlings pots from three inches to 

 four inches in diameter are suitable, and as just advised in the case of 

 those that are repotted, the young plants should be kept rather close 

 and shaded for a few days until they take hold of the new soil. 

 Plants that have sustained a check at the roots, and sometimes this is 

 unavoidable, are much refreshed by light syringings, rapid evaporation 

 being arrested. In the case of plants with roots which do not take a 

 very firm hold of the soil, moving them about will result in injury 

 unless the stems are secured to a stick. The stake should be rounded 

 and thoroughly pointed to avoid injury to the roots. Then push it 

 down to the bottom of the pot perpendicularly, otherwise when it is 

 withdrawn and reinserted damage to the roots may result. In tying 

 plants, particularly those of quick growth, future growth must be 

 allowed for, so that whether the material used be raffia, thread, or string, 

 it must not be tied too tightly round the growing shoots. 



General Treatment of the Greenhouse throughout the Year. 

 Position and other surrounding features will to some extent influence 

 the treatment to which the occupants of the greenhouse are subjected, 

 for in some places a drier atmosphere exists than in others. During the 

 winter greenhouse plants are partially at rest as a rule, hence they must 

 be kept drier than when in active growth. At the same time extreme 

 drought will work considerable havoc, for it is necessary to keep the soil 

 moderately moist. Such things as Tulips, Hyacinths, Azaleas, and 

 others, with flowers that develop in the spring need, of course, more 

 water than plants at rest. Too great a heat must be avoided; a 



