THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 177 



Terminal Buds. The illustration depicts the development of 

 terminal buds. If a free display of blossoms be the aim of the culti- 

 vator the whole of the buds should be allowed to produce flowers. If 

 three or four blooms only are wanted, disbud to this number. In all 

 cases, where large handsome flowers are desired, every bud but the one 

 marked A should be removed. Before this is determined, however, the 

 bud it is proposed to retain should be carefully looked over, to see if 

 it is of good and even shape. Should this fail to attain the standard 

 required, retain one of the smaller buds surrounding it, removing all 

 others at the time. 



Bush Plants. These find much favour with those who prefer an 

 abundance of flowers. When they are propagated as early as December 

 or January, there should be no difficulty in obtaining very large plants. 

 The method of culture to be followed in this case is very simple. When 

 the young plant is from six inches to eight inches high, pinch out the 

 tip or point of the shoot, thus inducing the plant to break out into fresh, 

 new growths at the axils of the leaves immediately below. From this 

 time, as succeeding shoots attain a length of six inches, pinch out the 

 points. If a November display be the aim of the cultivator, the last 

 " pinching " should take place during the third week of June, while for 

 a December display continue pinching the shoots until about the tenth 

 of July. The plants by this treatment flower on terminal buds, and 

 with the exception of thinning out if necessary they may be left to 

 develop. For the greenhouse and conservatory these plants are un- 

 equalled, and as cut flowers for indoor decorations, these freely flowered 

 plants are specially suitable. 



Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums. Those who have never 



grown the early-flowering Chrysanthemums miss many charming varie- 

 ties, which may be grown with ease by the beginner. Immense strides 

 have been made in recent years with the Japanese varieties. Although 

 there are a number of delightful Pompon varieties, they are now largely 

 outnumbered by Japanese kinds of recent introduction. They are essen- 

 tially plants for the outdoor garden, where their flowers make patches of 

 colour when Dahlias and other tender subjects are cut down by frost ; 

 the early-flowering Chrysanthemums continue blossoming freely until 

 severe frosts occur. The best plants are dwarf and branching, and 

 develop their growths without any interference whatever. Cuttings may 

 be inserted between January and the end of March, while many of the 

 Pompons may be propagated as late even as May. The advantage of 

 early propagation is that larger plants by these means are developed, 

 January cuttings often resulting in plants which will carry one hundred 

 and fifty flowers. They should be potted up into pots of various sizes 

 as advised for the mid-season sorts, the last shift for plants intended for 

 the outdoor border being into those five inches in diameter. Before 

 planting out, carefully harden off the plants in cold frames, and stand 

 them together in batches in a sheltered position out of doors. The third 

 week in May is the best time for planting, all danger of serious frosts 

 then being over The ground should have been deeply dug previously, 

 but not too much enriched with manures. Plant firmly, allowing a 



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