CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 



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weak or improperly matured, as well as very strong shoots, should be 

 removed. The leading branches of Apple trees, and any shoots in- 

 tended to form new branches, where there is room, should be left about 

 fifteen inches long. When exceptionally strong leave them rather 

 longer, and prune a little harder when weakly. The cultivator must 

 always have in view the ultimate shape of the Apple tree, and prune 

 to suitably placed buds. When shortening the leading outside branches, 

 cut back to a good bud on the outside, otherwise next year's shoot might 

 push towards the centre of the tree. 



Root Pruning. Some varieties of Apple trees are naturally of 

 very strong growth, and sometimes, especially if the soil in which they 

 are planted is fairly rich, they make a large quantity of shoots which 



ROOT PRUNING : SHOWING ROOTS DOWN IN BAD SOIL. 

 DOTTED LINE = SUBSOIL 



BELOW LOWER 



produce no fruit. The reason for this is, that the roots of the tree have 

 gone down into the subsoil, and instead of producing numerous small 

 fibres, are simply " tap roots " that is, they are destitute of fibres, and 

 can take comparatively little part in supplying nourishment to keep the 

 tree in position. To check undue luxuriance, and to promote the for- 

 mation of healthy fibrous roots, the long, bare, tap roots must be 

 pruned. To do this, make a trench about two feet deep around the tree, 

 at a distance from it of not less than four feet. Then with a fork 

 carefully draw away the soil from the tree, more particularly from 

 underneath, so as to find the thick and gross growing roots. Shorten 

 these back with an upward cut (as explained before), from which fibrous 

 roots will be emitted, place horizontally, again cover over, and 

 make firm. 



Grafting. The most general method of propagating the Apple is by 



