ROOT PRUNING: WAY TO CUT BACK 



A ROOT 



GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



Espalier. This is a desirable method of training the Pear, for 

 it possesses several good points. Trees so trained do not take up so 

 much space in the garden ; they are easily accessible, not difficult to 

 manage, are partially protected, and also succeed well. The espalier, or 

 trellis-work, upon which to train them can be quickly constructed. It is 

 necessary to obtain several stout poles or iron rods, six feet above ground, 



and some stout wire. The poles 

 or rods are erected at intervals, 

 and wires, placed about twelve 

 inches apart, are connected with 

 each one. Several forms of Pear 

 trees, horizontal, fan-shaped, and 

 cordons, are grown against such 

 espaliers, to which reference will 

 be made when treating of wall- 

 trees. 



Summer Treatment The 

 chief points to bear in mind in 



the management of Pear trees, after they have been properly planted in 

 suitable ground, are as follows : Each branch and shoot must have ample 

 room to develop and ripen, and sun and air should penetrate freely to 

 all parts of them. All exceptionally vigorous shoots must be checked, 

 and it will be found that those towards the top of the tree are liable 

 to grow most strongly. If allowed to go on unchecked the lower 

 branches would correspondingly become weak. Never allow a branch to 

 form unless there is sufficient room for it to grow without overcrowding 

 the tree ; either cut away the shoot completely, or prune it back to form 

 a fruit spur. The fruit of the Pear is borne upon short branches, known 

 as fruit spurs. These naturally formed 

 fruit spurs that on the wild Pear are 

 thorny branches are produced more 

 or less by all Pear trees. By the 

 judicious pinching and pruning of 

 other shoots, artificial fruit spurs may 

 also be formed. We will endeavour 

 to show how this may be done. 



Take, for instance, the ends of one 

 of the branches, i.e. the previous year's 

 growth. Some fruit spurs will probably 

 form, and some shoots will also develop. 

 If the latter were allowed to grow 

 throughout the summer, and the fol- 

 lowing winter were pruned back to within a few buds of their bases, next 

 summer shoots would again push from these buds, and the result would be 

 a mass of growth. This evidently is not the right method to adopt in order 

 to obtain a good crop of fruit. Instead of permitting the above shoots to 

 grow until the autumn, pinch them to within five or six leaves of their 

 bases early in July. Laterals, or side shoots, will develop which must 

 also be stopped when two or three inches long. By following such a 



ROOT PRUNING : HOW NOT TO 

 CUT BACK A ROOT 



