CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 279 



system, those shoots which, if left to grow unchecked during summer 

 would eventually produce simply a thicket of leaves, may be induced to 

 form flower-buds. The fruit spurs, however, should not be closer to- 

 gether than six or eight inches, or they, too, would probably become un- 

 fruitful. Leaf, as well as flower-buds, develop upon the spurs, so that if 

 the latter were less than the above distance apart, those important factors 

 in the well-being of a Pear tree, viz., sun and air, would be excluded by 

 the mass of foliage. In pinching the summer shoots, those on the upper- 

 most branches should first be stopped, gradually descending until the 

 whole tree has been passed over. Do not pinch them all at one time, 

 but allow several days to elapse between the checking of those at the top, 

 middle, and bottom of the tree. The leading shoots of the Pear tree 

 need not be stopped, as is necessary with the laterals. Allow them to 

 remain at full length until the autumn. 



Winter Pruning. At the annual winter pruning, which may be 

 carried out in November or December, the end shoots of the various 

 leading branches should be left about nine inches or twelve inches long, 

 according to their vigour. Always cut back to a bud that points 

 away from the centre of the tree, so that there may be no danger 

 of the resulting shoot growing inwards. At the winter pruning the 

 branches may be regulated, and the true shape of the tree preserved. 

 If any branches have grown inwards, or across others, cut them away ; 

 also remove all dead or cankered shoots, and those that are very weak. 



During the hot summer months do not allow the ground immediately 

 around the Pear trees to become hard and dry. Either cover it with 

 manure, or run the hoe over it frequently, so as to keep the surface soil 

 loose to maintain moisture by reducing evaporation. In a dry season 

 water hardy fruit trees in the open sometimes, especially when the fruits 

 are developing, as this is beneficial. By mulching and maintaining a 

 loose surface much may be done to lessen the labour of watering. 



Pear Trees on Walls. The usual forms of Pear trees trained 

 against walls are the horizontal, the fan-shaped, and the upright or 

 oblique single, double, or triple cordons. If the wall is high, a fan- 

 trained tree would cover it more quickly than a horizontally trained one. 

 This method is not, however, so extensively practised as formerly. Hori- 

 zontal-trained trees are preferred, and, during development, so that the 

 space between them shall not be wasted, the wall is planted with cordons. 

 Horizontal-trained trees, grafted on the Quince stock, should be planted 

 about fifteen feet apart, and the stem kept at least eight inches from the 

 wall so as to allow plenty of room for future growth. The formation of 

 a tree of this description, which is not at all difficult, is carried out in 

 the following way : Suppose that after having been grafted, one season's 

 growth has taken place. In the winter cut down the shoot to three 

 buds ; two of the latter should be about twelve inches above ground, for 

 the shoots from them will eventually form the primary horizontal 

 branches. The shoot from the third bud is trained upwards to form 

 the leader. Allow the shoots from the two side-buds to grow in an 

 oblique direction until well on in summer, and bring them down to a 

 horizontal position later. They naturally grow more vigorously in the 



