CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 307 



middle of February, when no further attention is required. If ripe 

 Strawberries are desired in April, the number of plants required must 

 be placed under cover early in February. 



Forcing. A cold frame is the best position for three or four weeks. 

 If a mild hot-bed of leaves can be prepared, in which to plunge the 

 plants, so much the better, for this promotes root action. Under this 

 treatment, the flower spikes also appear more quickly. In about eight 

 weeks from placing the plants in the cold frame, ripe fruit may be 

 expected, if a little fire heat be afterwards available. At the close 

 of three weeks or so, when the flower spikes commence to push forth, 

 the plants must be placed near to the roof (that is to say, within 

 twelve or eighteen inches) of whatever structure is at hand. If none 

 other than a cold frame is available, this will answer the purpose well, 

 although the fruits will naturally not be ripe as soon as in a heated 

 glasshouse. When the plants are first placed in the cold pit, if it is 

 intended to remove them in a few weeks' time, they may be plunged 

 close together. If, however, they are to remain there to fruit, a dis- 

 tance of several inches between each plant must be allowed. A mild 

 hot-bed is of immense advantage for starting early Strawberries, for 

 by first gently exciting the roots into action the plant is made to 

 produce better foliage and stronger flower spikes. Syringe the plants 

 daily once or more, according to the weather, giving a little air in 

 the morning ; close the pit early in the afternoon, and syringe the 

 plants at the same time. When the flowers begin to open, keep the 

 atmosphere of the house dry, and admit plenty of air ; such conditions 

 facilitate the formation of the embryo fruits, and must be maintained 

 until these are properly formed. When six or seven fruits "set" 

 upon each plant, the pit or house should again be kept warm and moist, 

 to encourage the former to grow as quickly as possible. Close the 

 house quite early in the afternoon, to raise the temperature, syringing 

 the plants at the same time to create a moist, genial atmosphere. 

 After developing for a week or more, the fruits gradually become 

 white, and soon afterwards change to the normal red colour. Dis- 

 continue syringing when the red colour is noticeable, for the fruits 

 then are softening, and if wetted, will probably decay. Always en- 

 deavour to assist the fruits after they are " set," by giving stimulants 

 to the plants in some form or other. A little guano may be sprinkled 

 upon the surface of the soil and the latter disturbed with a small pointed 

 stick (this allows the guano to enter the soil more easily), or weak 

 liquid manure may be given about twice a week. To insure well- 

 tiavoured fruits, more air and a dry atmosphere are essential when the 

 ripening stage approaches, foretold by the change in colour. These 

 various changes in the conditions of the house where Strawberries are 

 grown, must not, of course, be effected suddenly. The air must be 

 gradually increased daily, as the flowers open, until by the time all 

 have expanded, the house is quite cool. The same method should be 

 adopted when the fruits commence to change colour. 



Varieties for Outdoor Culture. Many varieties are in cultiva- 

 tion ; some good, others indifferent. 



