3H GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



each of the primary shoots, so as to obtain two from them, making six 

 in all. Currant bushes are less spreading in growth, consequently 

 there will not be space for so many branches, from six to nine being 

 sufficient. Red and White Currants succeed in any well-tilled land. 

 A deep, loamy soil is the best for them, and a light, gravelly one the 

 worst. Many cultivators plant them against walls to insure a suc- 

 cession. Those trained on walls facing west or south-west provide the 

 first supply, while those on north walls are the latest. As with 

 Gooseberries, it is preferable, if possible, to have all the plants to- 

 gether, either upon a plot of land or in a row by the side of a walk. 

 They should be planted at a distance of from five feet to six feet 

 apart. Plant in the autumn, just before the leaves fall, so that 

 the bushes may become partially established before winter. Do not 

 plant White Currants between Red ones, for the former grow less 

 vigorously than the latter, thus requiring a smaller amount of space 

 for development. 



General Treatment. During summer, to prevent overcrowding, 

 remove altogether those that are weak, and pinch the strongest ones 

 back to six leaves. The cultivator should always bear in mind that to 

 provide the requisite nourishment for the development and ripening 

 of a crop of fruit, a certain quantity of healthy young roots is 

 essential, and the way to encourage their formation is to allow 

 moderately free growth. Always avoid removing a lot of foliage at 

 once. Rather go over the plants daily, and stop a few of the strongest 

 shoots each time, or remove a few of the weak and useless ones. 

 Every winter, until the bush has reached the desired height, the 

 leading shoots must be shortened back to about six inches, more or 

 less, according to whether they are exceptionally vigorous or other- 

 wise. Unless this is done the fruit spurs that eventually form will be 

 very weak. Always cut to a bud pointing outwards, so as to preserve 

 the symmetry of the bush. The side shoots must be cut closely back 

 to within an inch of the old wood. The White Currant does not 

 require to be pruned so hard as the Red, for it is of more slender 

 growth, and less vigorous in every way. During summer spread 

 manure round the bushes, for this keeps the soil cool and moist, and 

 Currants quickly suffer from drought. Do not gather the fruit when 

 wet, especially if intended for preserving. The bushes should be 

 covered with netting when the fruit is ripening, or the birds will 

 prove destructive. Currants are often grown as standards, and are 

 then very useful, especially in small gardens ; moreover, they are 

 quite easy to manage. Insert the cuttings as previously advised. 

 In spring only allow the shoot from the top bud to grow, and pinch 

 back the others to one or tw^o leaves as they develop. Do not interfere 

 with the leading shoot until it has reached a height of rather more 

 than three feet from the ground. Fasten it to a stout stake, so that 

 it may be held firmly. In the autumn slightly shorten the shoot, and 

 next spring train four growths from just below the apex, to form the 

 primary branches of the tree. These will thus be three feet above 

 ground. The advantage of standard trees is that other bushes can be 



