320 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



damping down the house and care in firing the temperature can be 

 maintained. 



Melons, unless when first planted, need no shade of any kind. Inure 

 them to the full sun as soon as the roots obtain hold of the soil. On the 

 other hand, if there is free exposure, too much fire heat, and insufficient 

 atmospheric moisture, the plants will suffer from insect pests, such 

 as red-spider and black-fly. For the former syringe freely with 

 tepid water, to which add soft soap to make it like milk and a lump of 

 sulphur the size of an egg, and well mix ; also cover the plants. Shade 

 the glass for a few days and keep both house and plants moist and the 

 spider will soon disappear, as it cannot exist in a moist house. Black- 

 fly is as troublesome and needs even stronger measures. Dip the 

 affected points of the shoots in tobacco water. Syringe the plants 

 with a weaker solution and fumigate twice a week when the soil is 

 dry, but in the intervals maintain a moister atmosphere, as the pest 

 delights in dry heat. In very bad cases it may be necessary to sponge 

 the leaves, but, if possible, the pest should be destroyed in its early 



Another disease, more difficult to eradicate, is canker of the stem, 

 and if not arrested the whole plant sometimes collapses. When first 

 seen put finely -powdered fresh lime over the cankered portion, and 

 always keep the soil dry near the stem when watering. Canker is 

 also caused by allowing a too free growth, severe stopping, too sudden 

 fall of temperature, and excess of moisture. In bad cases a little 

 pest cement may be used, covering the stem with this material round 

 the affected portion. 



Soil. A good stiff loamy soil should be chosen for Melons, and 

 this with a small portion of bone-meal or fine old mortar rubble makes 

 a good compost. Manures are unnecessary ; it is wiser to rely on 

 surface foods given when required. The soil also should not be sifted, 

 but left in a rough state, using a little fine material round the roots 

 at planting. Some growers do not make a bed, but place a ridge or 

 heap of soil at the start, say half a bushel to a plant. This is increased 

 by another when the fruits are set, and of a little richer material. 

 Make the soil quite firm, and stake firmly and carefully. Use tepid 

 water for watering and syringing, and put the plants out on the beds 

 at three feet apart in the house. They may be a little nearer if the 

 variety is a compact grower, and four feet may be given if two growths 

 are taken from one plant. To do this stop the plants at from twelve 

 inches to eighteen inches from the soil. The two strong shoots at the 

 upper portion are then trained over the trellis and all those below 

 rubbed out, the main shoots being again stopped at three feet to four 

 feet as advised above for the single shoots. Grown thus plants, soil, 

 and labour are saved at the start, but more attention is needed to 

 secure a full set of fruit. The single growth system at the start is 

 preferable for beginners, and by doing so an earlier set is obtained. 



Frame Culture is very similar. The temperatures given above 

 cannot in this method of culture be kept up, but much may be done 

 by careful ventilation, early closing, covering at night, and giving a 



