324 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



more leaders, and then prune close in every season, allowing the main 

 shoot to extend as far as desired. 



In a few words, the main or strong lateral growths are cut close, 

 the short, small spray wood is left, and no suckers are allowed from 

 the stems or from the soil. Many years must elapse before large trees 

 can be formed, but once formed they remain fruitful for a lifetime, and, 

 given food in the way of surface dressing in the winter months, they 

 are most profitable. Night soil, mixed with long litter that has been 

 in heaps for some months, may be made good use of for old Nut trees. 

 Young trees that produce gross wood should not be fed. 



Varieties. The following are a few of the leading kinds. One 

 of the best is the Cosford, which has been already described. The 

 Kentish Cob is one of the most prolific, a good market variety and 

 free, and the newer Webb's Prize Crop promises well. This is an im- 

 proved Kent variety, and a larger cob than the older one. In the 

 Filbert none can beat the true Kent variety for flavour, but this 

 should be planted where a little protection can be afforded. It is not 

 so prolific as the old Red Filbert, which has a red skin and is very 

 free. The Filbert Prolific is distinct, produces fine clusters, having a 

 cut or frizzled husk, and is much liked in its green state before being 

 kept. 



The Raspberry. The Raspberry grows wild in moist and shady 

 places in many parts of England. Its home life reveals its require- 

 ments as to soil and situation. It succeeds best in a deep and moist 

 soil. In poor shallow soil its surface roots suffer from insufficient 

 moisture and nourishment. If the ground upon which it is intended 

 to cultivate Raspberries is light and rather poor, improve it by digging 

 in decayed leaves, or other refuse from the vegetable garden, and 

 also manure if available. A good mulch early in spring for a short 

 distance around the canes is of great benefit. The numerous fibrous 

 surface roots are kept cool and protected from the drying effects of the 

 hot sun, while they are benefited by the mulch. 



Planting. The best time for this is when the leaves are falling in 

 autumn, viz., in the month of October. Raspberries are usually trained 

 to horizontal wires fixed between upright poles. These espaliers (for 

 such are formed by the poles and wires) should be five feet apart, and 

 each plant about two feet from its neighbour. If autumn planting is 

 impossible postpone the work until the month of March. This is 

 preferable to planting in midwinter, when the soil is cold and wet, 

 although such good progress cannot be expected from spring-planted 

 canes as from those put in during October. The latter have an oppor- 

 tunity of becoming established before winter, and are then ready to 

 start well in spring. Raspberry canes may also be trained to single 

 stakes, placed in rows five feet apart, with a distance of three feet 

 between each stake in the row. 



The shoots, or " canes " as they are generally called, of the Rasp- 

 berry are produced every year either from a perennial (i.e. living for 

 several years) root-stock, or from the roots. In the latter case they 

 are termed suckers. It is not advisable to keep the root-stocks of 



