USEFUL HINTS 335 



Coops for Winter Protection. Mr. G. F. Wilson, of Weybridge, has a most useful 

 coop for protecting winter flowers, especially the Christmas Rose. He writes that he has at 

 Wisley a place which suits both the winter and Lent Hellebores : " Ours are planted in 

 a bank at the side of a ditch facing north, shaded by a high hedge at the south side of 

 the ditch. The soil is light loam, and in ordinary years rather moist. Some good 

 authorities advocate planting in the full sun. Our experiments have gone the other way. 

 Perhaps it is a question of stiffness of soil. As the flowers when out have often hard 

 frosts and heavy rain to contend with, glazed lights are frequently recommended to pro- 

 tect them. My object in this note is to recommend coops, as being much lighter and as 

 covering larger plants. We began by using common wicker hen-coops covered with 

 green scrim, but after a time the wood got out of shape and decayed, so iron wire was 

 substituted for the skeleton. If these coops are put by in the summer, if not in use, in a 

 dry place, they will last for many years. After the Hellebores they are useful for Anemone 

 fulgens." 



Covering for Close North Paling 1 . Many beginners regard the north aspect as 

 unsuitable for plants in general, but it is as easy to plant a paling with a north exposure, 

 and to make it beautiful with a flowering covering, as one with any other position ; 

 indeed some plants, by no means the hardiest, such as Escallonia and Ceanothus, will 

 often on a north wall or fence escape that vernal danger of sun on frosty stems or foliage 

 that so often kills these plants, or at any rate cuts them to the ground in any sunny aspect 

 other than westerly. Any of the Ayrshire Roses would do well, and the common pink 

 China, also the beautiful and long blooming hybrids of China and such fine rambling 

 things as Penzance Briars, Mme. Alfred Carrier^, and Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, the 

 grandest of roses for winter foliage. Wistaria would also do, and the Clematis species, 

 such as montana, Flammula, graveolens, and paniculata. Jasminum nudiflorum is 

 naturally at home in such a place. The Guelder Rose, trained as a wall or fence cover- 

 ing, is admirable; and another handsome shrub that is excellent for the same use is 

 Spircza lindleyana, all the prettier if Clematis Flammula runs into it. The Roses named 

 are all but the China and hybrids strong and even rampant growers. Reine Olga 

 will throw out shoots 15 feet long in the year, therefore these should be planted a good 

 distance apart. When the fence is not high, say about 5 feet, the Roses must be trained 

 down and are all the better for it. 



Destroying Wasps' Nests. The simplest and most certain material with which to 

 destroy wasps' nests is cyanide of potassium. A very small quantity of this may be 

 dropped a little way in the hole of the nest, the entrance being at once closed with a piece 

 of turf. Cartridges of gun cotton, dynamite, or other similar explosive, with lighted fuse 

 attached, then placed in the hole, will generally blow the nests to atoms. One may use 

 with almost equal effect ordinary squibs of gunpowder, brimstone, or saltpetre, as the 

 smoke being enclosed the wasps are quickly destroyed. These measures should be 

 taken at night when the wasps are in the nest. Rag soaked in tar and put on the end of 

 the stick which must be lighted, thrust into the hole, and a thick piece of turf to stop the 

 entrance, will kill the marauders. 



Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Windy Places.' Only vigorous trees and shrubs 

 should be planted in very windy places. Where Rhododendrons and Azaleas succeed they 

 may be planted freely for their spring beauty, and, in the case of the former shrub, ever- 

 green foliage too. Barberries may be tried, and they bear beautiful flowers in spring and 

 summer, followed by showy fruit in autumn. The purple-leaved Barberry (B. vulgaris 

 purpurea) is an effective, dark-leaved shrub, and will flourish in quite barren ground. 

 The Phillyreas form a small group of compact, evergreen shrubs, and, with the exception 

 of P. decora, also known as P. vilmoriniana, all have graceful deep green leaves, and are 

 quite hardy. The Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum) is another good shrub for the 

 purpose. One may also choose from the Thorn, Laburnum, stronger growing forms of 

 Deutzia, Bush Honeysuckles (Weigela), Snowdrop Tree (Halesia), Lilacs, Flowering 

 Currants (Ribes). 



Garden Plants that will bear Flooding. Many of my readers are placed by river- 

 sides, and some part of the garden is flooded occasionally in winter. A correspondent in 

 the Garden, "A. B.," in response to a question about the plants likely to succeed under 

 such conditions, gave a list from his experience that will succeed: "Several forms of 

 Lychnis, Spiraea, Myosotis (Forget-me-not) in various perennial forms ; Lupinus, Leucojum 

 (Snowflakes), Flag or German Iris, Trollius (Globe-flowers), Caltha (Marsh Marigolds), 

 in variety ; Chrysanthemum latifolium and C. maximum, with their hybrids ; Bunch 

 Primroses, Polyanthus, Primula japonica (plant this on the water edge of the river), 

 Daffodils, Snowdrops, Fritillaria, double form of Meadow Saxifrage, Anemone japonica, 

 Hemerocallis (Day Lilies), these will revel in a damp root-run ; Aconitum, Paeony, 

 Helianthus (Perennial Sunflower), Delphiniums (to see these at their best add peat to the 

 soil), Starworts, Phlox (must have very rich soil), Doronicums, Campanulas (to get best 

 effect add peat and leaf-mould), Oriental Poppies, Achillea Ptarmica, the Pearl, 



