338 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



black, the bark dies, and this is generally followed by the exudation of gum. From this 

 it would appear that the sap vessels having been ruptured, strangulation at that point 

 results, and the growth above, being cut off from further support, perishes. In the case 

 of strong growing trees lift them and rearrange the roots, bringing the latter nearer the 

 surface. Place fresh strong loam about them, the only addition required being old 

 mortar, and then ram the whole firm. 



Although, as pointed out, gumming may be the result in the first instance of indiffe- 

 rent root action, coupled with what may be termed frost-bite, it generally follows wounds 

 or abrasions of the bark. How do these abrasions occur? Seeing the evil which follows, 

 how careful one should be in avoiding them. 



A wound to the bark is easily produced by the use of shreds that are too short, and 

 which will not allow for the free swelling of the various shoots for at least a year. No 

 part of the tree should ever be allowed to press hard against the brickwork. Look over 

 the trees frequently during the growing season to free any shoot that is likely to become 

 too closely encircled by the shreds or matting. 



Hedges of Flowering Shrubs. It often happens that some kind of hedge is wanted 

 in a garden, either as a screen to hide vegetable ground, or as a wind break or some kind 

 of partition. When this is the case it is a good plan to plant hardy flowering shrubs 

 about 4 feet apart, and so to train them that they grow into a compact hedge, 

 and yet have enough lateral play to allow them to flower. Such a hedge is not only 

 ornamental, but it yields endless material for cutting. It should be allowed to grow 

 quite 4 feet thick, and is best formed with a backbone of stiff woody shrubs, such as 

 Guelder Roses, Ribes, and Lilac, while between the stiffer shrubs might be some that are 

 weaker, such as Kerria, Rhodotypos, and Leycesteria. Plants of rank, rambling growth, 

 such as the free Roses or double-flowered Brambles, Aristolochia, Wistaria, Virginian 

 Creeper, and the rambling Honeysuckles, are not in place in such a hedge ; they are 

 more suitable for rough hedge banks, walls, or for arbour and pergola ; the flower hedge 

 wants true shrubs. The bush Honeysuckles, such as Lonicera fragrantissima and 

 L. tatarica, are just right, or any woody, twiggy bushes either of moderate growth, or 

 such as are amenable to pruning or thinning, such as Deutzia and Snowberry, shrubs that 

 so often get overgrown in a shrubbery. In the hedge these would do well, as they could 

 be easily watched and thinned, also any of the many true shrubs that flower all the better 

 for reasonable pruning. Any one would be surprised to see what a quantity of useful 

 flowers such a hedge will yield, while if there is another of foliage for winter use it will be 

 invaluable to the indoor decorator, using such shrubs as the Scotch Golden Holly, Golden 

 Euonymus, Golden Privet, the variegated Eurya latifolia, yellow variegated Box, 

 Cassiniafulvida, and Golden Tree Ivy, all shrubs of the utmost value for winter cuttings. 

 Other flower hedges are delightful possessions. Hedges of China Rose, of Sweet-briar, 

 of old garden Roses, or of climbing and rambling Roses trained down, of Honeysuckle, 

 of Jasmine some of these are occasionally seen ; but a good selection of true shrubs hedges 

 is rarely, if ever, made. Any of the shrubs recommended for the mixed flowering 

 hedge could, of course, be used alone, and excellent would it be to have a hedge of Guelder 

 Rose, or of flowering Currant or Japan Quince, and how much more interesting than the 

 plain hedge of Quick or Privet or Holly. Both sides of the hedge should be easily acces- 

 sible ; not necessarily by a hard path, but by a space just wide enough to go along 

 comfortably. An additional advantage well worth considering would be that, supposing 

 the direction of the hedge was east and west, the south side would flower in advance of 

 the north, and so prolong the supply of bloom. 



Labels. Everything sown or planted in a garden should be labelled, such as all 

 varieties of Apples or other fruits, of Dahlias, Roses, Carnations, and other things indi- 

 vidually, and Peas, Potatoes, Cabbages, &c., in the bulk. Labels may be made easily 

 from stout laths rent for plastering, as these need little preparation. A bundle of laths 

 3 feet long will make hundreds of labels, from 4 inches, wired on to trees or roses, up to 

 8 inches, for vegetables. First cut them into proper lengths, then pointed one end, if to 

 be put in the ground, doing that with a sharp knife, and facing off both sides flatwise 

 quite smooth. A little thin white paint may be well rubbed over a few inches of the top 

 of one side, and the name be written with pencil whilst the paint is wet. It then soon 

 dries, and the writing will remain clear as long as the label endures. These wood labels 

 should be prepared by the fireside in the winter. If metal labels are desired, the best we 

 know are the " Acme." 



Making a Hot-bed. In making a hot-bed, either for forcing vegetables, growing 

 Melons or Cucumbers, or raising annual flowers, the first thing to be considered is the 

 preparation of the materials. These should consist of leaves and stable litter in equal 

 quantities, and be thrown into a heap and turned over several times at intervals of three 

 or four days to allow the steam to escape. If the leaves or litter are too dry, make them 

 thoroughly moist by sprinkling water over them. Thus prepared the material will retain the 

 heat for an indefinite period. Secondly, the dimensions of the bed should be marked out, 



