USEFUL HINTS 339 



and allowance made for a 2^-feet pathway all round, after the frame is placed on. Stout 

 stakes should then be driven in at the four corners to serve as guides when the bed is being 

 made, after which place a layer of the material along the sides and ends of the bed, in a 

 direct line with the stakes, and then proceed with the interior of the bed. As each moderate 

 layer of leaves and litter is added, let it be trodden very firmly, as if left in a loose con- 

 dition the bed will soon lose its heat, and also be liable to tilt on one side when the frame 

 is placed on. The sides and ends must be well trodden and beaten with a fork, or they 

 will collapse when walked upon later. Beds which are made very early in the year 

 should be 4 feet high at the back, and 3 feet 6 inches in front, while those made later 

 may be 6 inches less in depth. A good fall from back to front must be allowed, so that 

 a maximum amount of sun heat may reach the interior of the frame. As soon as the bed 

 is finished the frame may be placed on and the soil thrown in, after which some clean straw 

 litter should be laid round the frame on the bed to give a neat appearance. 



Marking a Pergola. The pergola, or covered way of green growths, has come to us 

 from Italy, and is frequently seen in English gardens. In Italy it answers the two pur- 

 poses of the best way of growing Vines for fruit, and of affording pleasant shade over paths. 

 Even in England, though Grapes will only ripen against a wall, the Vine is still the best 

 and most beautiful covering for these pleasant, shady ways, and with other quick-growing 

 climbing plants, such as Aristolochia and Roses, will soon cover the skeleton of the struc- 

 ture, and give the cool shade that is so pleasant in the heat of full summer. The pergola 

 may be entirely of wood, preferably of oak, stems about 9 inches in diameter, and left 

 quite rough. The bark must not be stripped off. Where expense is no object it is better 

 that the supports should be of something more durable than wood. Nothing is better 

 than piers of i4-inch brickwork, standing 7 feet 2 inches out of the ground, with sound 

 beams of oak coupling them across the walk, and larch poles or branching tops of oak 

 laid along overhead. There are also some small trees that will soon cover a pergola, 

 such as Laburnum and Weeping Ash. These two, if grown together over a temporary 

 larch support, would in time take its place altogether. In quite small gardens rough 

 arches of oak across a path are pretty, and provide opportunities for the growth of 

 climbers; but never use galvanised iron frameworks or anything of a cheap "rustic" 

 character. Simplicity should be the watchword. 



Mulching 1 . This is a term understood by practical gardeners as a dressing of some 

 other material placed on the surface of the soil about plants, trees, and similar things to 

 check waste of moisture when, either after watering or after rain, or at any time hot sun 

 beats fiercely on the soil, and makes it hot so that it dries rapidly. To prevent that the 

 gardener, whenever he can, places about the things he has to water, or between and about 

 garden crops or fruit trees or other things, a layer of manure containing a good portion of 

 straw ; or failing that, cocoa-nut fibre refuse or decayed leaves, as these catch the sun's 

 rays and protect the soil, thus keeping moisture in it. Under waterings or rains the manurial 

 properties in the mulch also will wash in and assist to feed the crops or trees. Fruit trees 

 on walls and Vines specially benefit by mulches of manure. 



Nails and Shreds. Every gardener (the term is used in its broadest sense) has 

 occasion to nail fruit trees or climbers to walls or fences. The best nails for brick or 

 stonework are those of the ordinary cast-iron form, as these do not bend, and can be 

 driven into very hard material. When old ones are drawn from a wall they should 

 have a partial turn or twist given to them with the hammer claw or pincers first, as that pre- 

 serves the point and frees them from mortar. Nails that have lost their points are of 

 little use, and should be thrown away. Old nails with hard mortar still adhering are 

 best cleaned by putting them into an old shovel and burning them in a fire, as then they 

 are quite fit for use. Shreds should always be made of clean, even if old cloth. They 

 may, according to the size of the shoots they are to secure, range from half an inch to an 

 inch in width, and be from three to even six inches in length. Old shreds may be full of 

 insect eggs or fungoid spores, and should be burned at once. 



Old Trees and Climbing Roses. It is a mistake to destroy old trees because they are 

 worn out. A tree is frequently picturesque in its old age, and seems to invite some 

 beautiful flower to clothe its bare, knotted stems with beauty. Roses will provide the 

 flowery dress. A very useful note appeared in the Garden lately upon this question of 

 clothing old trees with Roses. The writer says : "Should there be an old orchard with 

 ancient non-bearing trees, it is a good plan, instead of doing away with them altogether, to 

 use the old trunks as supports for Climbing Roses. The boughs should be shortened and 

 the Roses allowed to climb up and fall over the sprays in as natural a way as possible. 

 There is something about old Apple trees that Roses seem to like, and the combination 

 has in a short time a charming effect. I had some Roses planted in this way two years ago 

 which have mounted to a height of 15 feet to 20 feet. My experience is that if you wish to 

 be successful with Climbing Roses you must let them grow freely and pretty much as they 

 like, using the pruning knife but very little. Train them carefully, and be sure and give 

 them a plentiful supply of farmyard manure-water during the spring and summer months. 



