406 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



Apples and Pears will need gathering, but do not hurry this work. Many of our best Pears 

 will not keep long, and these should be left as late as possible. Far better, in the case of late 

 varieties to lose a few fruits by dropping than a large number when in the store by shrivel- 

 ing and premature decay. Apples left as long as possible on the trees always colour 

 better and keep longer. Many gardeners leave late kinds on the trees in a favourable 

 season until the early part of November. As soon as Peaches and Nectarines are gathered, 

 what is termed the old fruiting wood should be cut away ; namely, the small shoots 

 that have borne fruit, and if, as advised when disbudding, two or even one shoot were 

 left at the base, these now will be full grown and take the place of the wood cut out. By 

 cutting out this wood now the new growth made will have a better chance of ripening. 

 Branches of Figs on walls should be thinned, and weak growth removed. By doing this 

 work now, little pruning will be needed in spring. 



OCTOBER 



Flower Garden. Work amongst the flowers will principally consist in clearing away 

 old plants that have done their duty, and replacing with others of a hardier nature. 

 Wallflowers, Forget-me-Nots, Sweet Williams, and such like plants should now be 

 lifted from their summer quarters with a ball and planted in the beds. Now is the best 

 time to lift evergreens if the soil is sufficiently moist. It is necessary to have a ball of 

 earth and roots to each plant. Should the weather be dry, soak the plants previous to 

 their removal. All tender plants should be given shelter. Bulbous rooted ones, such 

 as Begonias, should be placed in fine soil or loose fibre, and kept dry in a greenhouse. 

 Cannas will winter under stages or in dry cellars. This also applies to Begonias, as in 

 many small gardens glass is not at command. Dahlias need similar treatment, also 

 Cardinal Lobelias, which are beautiful summer plants. Calceolarias winter well in places 

 merely protected from severe frost if not kept too moist in winter. 



Vegetables. All late Potatoes should be lifted this month and clamped that is, they 

 are placed in heaps on a layer of clean straw, and covered with straw, and over this soil 

 from 9 inches to 12 inches in thickness. Make the outside smooth with the back of the 

 spade. Seed Potatoes should be more freely exposed to harden the tubers, either on 

 shelves or in boxes in layers. Mould up Celery without delay ; finish Cabbage planting, 

 and do not rely on a very early sowing or planting as in mild winters. These run or bolt, 

 and the crop is lost. When planting now, select medium-sized sturdy plants, and plant 

 in an open position in rows, 15 inches between the plants and 18 inches between the 

 rows. Protect early Cauliflower by tying the leaves at the top. This also applies to the 

 autumn Broccoli. Cauliflowers sown a few weeks ago should be planted on a warm 

 border, or at the foot of a south wall ; or if hand-glasses or frames are at hand, they 

 winter well under these. Plant a good batch of late Lettuces on a warm, well-drained 

 border, lifting the seedlings carefully to keep the roots intact. 



Fruit Garden. This is a busy month, as there is fruit to gather and store, and new 

 trees to select and plant. The best plan is to plant as soon as the leaves fall, and the 

 trees must be ordered some time in advance. In planting, if the soil is fairly good, dig 

 deeply, but avoid manures. Such materials as old lime, rubble, or chalk, are most bene- 

 ficial where there is an absence of lime. In the case of heavy clay ground, give drainage 

 such as brick rubble, and incorporate some lighter materials. Burnt refuse, road 

 scrapings from limestone roads, and bone meal will greatly assist poor soil. Plant in 

 suitable weather, and do not finally nail up the trees to walls until the soil has settled 

 down. Root prune trees that grow too gross that is, cut out a good workable trench, 

 say from 2^ feet to 3 feet, and the same depth. Cut the roots well under the trees, 

 and fill in with some new soil, adding such aids as advised above (not manures; add 

 these to the soil needing improvement). 



NOVEMBER 



Flower Garden. There will be little to accomplish this month. Rolling the walk or 

 walks frequently, the grass also, and if at all poor use a coarse rake or harrow over it, and 

 pull out weeds and moss. Place on some fresh soil to which has been added a good por- 

 tion of bone meal, say one-fourth part, and such materials as old leaf-mould, marrow beds, 

 burnt refuse, and road scrapings, are excellent. At this dull season any new work may 

 be taken in hand, such as beds, walks, or borders. Replant shrubs, or cut out and give 

 others support if needed. Cover Tea Roses with some light litter, or anything that will 

 protect the stems at the part near the surface. It is a good plan to draw up soil over this 

 portion, as then, should a severe winter cut down the old growths, new ones will spring 



