THE "NATIVE" COW. 127 



butter. In regard to cheese, I desire to say to the gentleman 

 from Barre, that I fear no wholesale manufacturer of cheese 

 will ever come up to his old domestic standard. I have had 

 two cheeses presented me by the farmers of Barre. One was 

 given me by Mrs. Ellsworth, whose courtesy and hospitality I 

 shall always remember with the most profound gratitude. It 

 was a cheese made in her own house, by her own hands, and 

 ripened as she knew how to ripen it. That was a cheese whose 

 quality and flavor rest in my memory still. The other cheese 

 was presented to me by the cheese manufacturers of the town 

 of Barre, as a specimen of the products of their factories. It 

 was a factory-niade cheese, and a very excellent result it was 

 of factory manufacture. I tried with all the skill that I had to 

 bring that cheese up to the genuine Ellsworth standard, but I 

 never got it there. Somehow or other, it was a little too 

 strong, or a little too sharp, or there was something about it 

 that was not just right. I never could ripen it up to the 

 standard reached by the products of our best domestic dairies. 

 So, I would say to you, when you want to get the perfection 

 of cheese, pass directly by the door of Mr. Ellsworth's cheese 

 factory, and introduce yourself to Mrs. Ellsworth's dairy-room, 

 if she still has one, and then you will find out what good 

 cheese is. I do not say this to disparage the cheese factory, 

 or to intimate that, like Peter Pindar's razors, factory cheese 

 is made to sell, but simply with the hope that the manufacture 

 of cheese in the factory will be brought to a uniform degree 

 of excellence, as high as the best of those brought out by 

 the most skilful dairy-woman before the factory was estab- 

 lished. 



Now, with regard to the suggestions that have been made 

 here upon the question of the New England dairy cow. It is 

 a very important question, and many of the statements made 

 by Mr. Cheever are perfectly in accordance with my own 

 views. But I want to remind him, that the best cows in New 

 England that are called "native" cows, are those which, for 

 long generations, have been adapted to our soil and climate, 

 and have descended from some of the best recognized breeds. 

 If you take what are called "native" cows, you will find that 

 many of them (Mr. Cheever will excuse me for saying it) are 

 " hampered with a pedigree " and when we get them back to 



