1885 LETTERS FROM ROME 385 



In January 1885 he went to Eome, whence he 

 writes : 



HOTEL VICTORIA, VIA DEI DUE MAOELLI, 

 ROME, Jan. 8, 1885. 



MY DEAR FOSTER We have been here a fortnight 

 very well lodged south aspect, fireplace, and all the rest 

 of the essentials except sunshine. Of this last there is 

 not much more than in England, and the grey skies day 

 after day are worthy of our native land. Sometimes it 

 rains cats and dogs all day by way of a change as on 

 Christmas Day but it is not cold. " Quite exceptional 

 weather," they tell us, but that seems to be the rule 

 everywhere. We have done a respectable amount of 

 gallery -slaving, and I have been amusing myself by 

 picking up the topography of ancient Rome. I was 

 going to say Pagan Eome, but the inappropriateness of 

 the distinction strikes me, papal Rome being much more 

 stupidly and childishly pagan than imperial I never 

 saw a sadder sight than the kissing a wretched bedizened 

 doll of a Bambino that went on in the Ara Coeli on 

 Twelfth Day. Your Puritan soul would have longed to 

 arise and slay. . . . 



As to myself, though it is a very unsatisfactory subject 

 and one I am very tired of bothering my friends about, 

 I am like the farmer at the rent-dinner, and don't find 

 myself much " forrarder." That is to say, I am well for 

 a few days and then all adrift, and have to put myself 

 right by dosing with Clark's pills, which are really 

 invaluable. They will make me believe in those pills 

 I saw advertised in my youth, and which among other 

 things were warranted to cure " the indecision of juries." 

 I really can't make out my own condition. I walked 

 seven or eight miles this morning over Monte Mario and 

 out on the Campagna without any particular fatigue, and 

 yesterday I was as miserable as an owl in sunshine. 

 Something perhaps must be put down to the relapse 



VOL. II 2C 



