40 THE GRAPE. 



rooted varies greatly in its details, but the general principles are 

 the same in every case. 



Long Bard-wood Cuttings.— These should be made in the fall 

 from the hard, well-ripened new wood of the season. It is best to 

 make them about eight inches long, if wood is abundant. The 

 length will necessarily depend somewhat on the distance between 

 the buds on the canes, and when three-bud cuttings are made of 

 some varieties they may be ten inches long. They are often made 

 six inches long, but so short as this they are more liable to fail 

 from drying out than if longer. They will send out roots best if 

 cut just below a bud, but this is not necessary. These cuttings 

 should be put up in bundles of about one hundred each. Bury 

 them in some well drained place with the tops down, and cover 

 with about six inches of soil and a foot or two of mulch. Be sure 

 the soil is packed firmly around and between the bundles, so that 

 they cannot dry out in winter. In the spring, when the ground is 

 dry, take all but about three inches of the soil from over the cut- 

 tings and replace it with about one foot of hot stable manure, to 

 induce the cuttings to callous. This is very necessary, to insure 

 their rooting, and they should not be planted out until well cal- 

 loused. The same object may be secured by covering the cuttings 

 with a box and sash, which will confine the sun's rays and so warm 

 the roots that they will start a callous. When the soil is settled 

 and warm they should be planted out, six inches apart, in rows two 

 or three feet apart, putting the cuttings down to the top bud. Thay 

 should be at least seven inches deep in most locations. 



The Land for Cuttings.— The land selected for growing cut- 

 tings should be warm, light and rich. Its condition will be greatly 

 improved if it is warmed by being plowed several times and having 

 a coat of fine, warm manure turned in before planting. When 

 planting on a large scale the land may be marked off with a line, 

 and a sub-soil plow>un eight inches deep in the mark to loosen the 

 soil, after which the cuttings can easily be set by hand. The rows 

 should next be straightened with a line, and each cutting carefully 

 firmed by pressing close to each side of each cutting with the ball 

 of the foot. When this work is well done the cuttings will be in 

 the ground so solid that they cannot easily be pulled out with the 

 fingers. The after-cultivation consists in continually working the 

 top soil and keeping it loose and open. In the fall, if the plants are 

 weak, they may be covered with earth and left where they are for 

 another season's growth ; but if strong, they may be dug and used 

 for vineyard planting the following spring. It is customary to dig 

 all the vines late in the fall, carefully sort them and heel them in 

 out doors for winter, or else put them in a cold cellar. In the 

 spring the strong vines may be used in the vineyard and the weak- 

 er ones be set out in the nursery to grow another year. 



One-eye CuTTiNGg.— The wood for these should be cut in the 

 fall and wintered over in a cold cellar, burieci in moss, sand, saw- 

 dust, or other similar material, or it may be buried out- doors. In 



