14 



PROGRESS OF TASTE OR OF THE PERCEPTION OF FLAVOR. 



Thk power to discriminate accurately in regard to flavor, is not altogether a native gift, 

 but is progressive under proper culture, and if we know upon what a person has exercised 

 liis taste, we can, Avithout trial, say with a considerable degree of certainty what will be 

 liis opinion in regard to certain flavors. 



A person who has only eaten the tough acerb kinds of cidei* apjjles, on being presented 

 witli the Duchess of Oldenburg Gravenstein and Red Astrachan, would pronounce them 

 very tender and agreeable — delightful, and such they are truly in comparison with tl)e 

 others, and able to aftbrd some measure of the enjoyment that belongs to good dessert 

 apples. The same person on being presented with the Dominie would pronounce that de- 

 lightful and excellent for its juicy tenderness. 



Now introduce him to the \ andervere, and on critical examination he would say : " This is 

 by far the best of all apples ; tender, juicy, rich, and most delightfully flavored." 



After becoming thoroughly acquainted with all of these, by habitual use, for two or 

 three seasons, he would still rank them in the order named, and would find the measure of 

 his enjoyment increasing by their use, but the cultivation would have increased his gusta- 

 tory perceptions, so that he would be sensible of new Avants not fully satisfied by any of 

 these. The Oldenburg, Astrachan and Gravenstein by the side of Vandervere, Avould be 

 greatly deficient in richness, as well as in tenderness of flesh, and Dominie too feeble- 

 flavored to use wlien the others were to be had. The Vandervere would be to him still 

 very rich and tender, but he would recur to it more for the sensuous delight of its exquis- 

 ite flavor, than for its vinous refreshment. His perceptions would be awakened, ready to 

 perceive the true excellence of the best apples, if presented, and to analyze the flavor. 



The Early Joe would be to him now most exquisite in its tenderness, purity of juice, and 

 fine, refreshing flavor, and he would not hesitate to proclaim it the best and most delight- 

 ful of apples. Only the Vandervere would be retained from all the others, as really ex- 

 cellent and very valuable for occasional use, but not for constant use, and not more than once 

 daily, as would be the case Avith Early Joe. 



XoAV let him make the acquaintance of Northern Spy, in the full spirited excellence of 

 its best condition, and he Avill say it is almost as tender and delicate as Early Joe, but sur- 

 passing it in its Avine-like refreshing poAver. "This is the perfection of apple and the best 

 of fruits for daily use." He can not noAV go back for enjoyment to inferior kinds. 



The person Avho eats the Windsor Pear Avill occasionally recur to it again, if he is not 

 conversant Avith better fruits, and Avill obtain some enjoyment from it. The Madeleine, 

 although acid and austere, has more spirit, and he Avill say it is better, but it will not 

 make any impression to be remembered by its decided excellence. The Summer Doyenne 

 will strike at once by its beauty and corresponding SAveetness of flaA'or, but having only a 

 moderate share of vinous life, Avith a tolerable share of pear flaA'or, a fcAA^, and at not A'ery 

 frequent intervals, will satisfy the appetite for it, and he Avill call it good, but feeble-flavored, 

 and Avanting in Avine, for he Avill have learned to call the refreshing and restorative princi- 

 ple of the apple by that expressive name for Avhich he can find no other, and he will also 

 apply it to the same principle in pears. 



He Avill find the Bartlett better, but if his perceptions are acute, its defects Avill also be 

 apparent, and he Avill not chai-acterize it as excellent Avithout reservation, although he will 

 say it is rich in sugar and Avine in comparison Avith the otliers. 



If the Rostiezcr noAv is oftercd, he Avill perceive in its rich mingling of sugar, Avine, and 

 spice only an assemblage of goodness, leaving nothing to be desired that may be looked 

 for in a pear. He Avill be very sensible of the defects of the Bartlett. 



The Seckel, richest, most spirited and spicy of all sugary pears, he Avill not find more 

 satisfactory and refresliing for daily use than the Rosticzer, and he will probably character- 

 ize the Rostiezer as the best for abundant family use. 



Above these, there is one more rich, Aviney, and refreshing, but it is so rarely obtained 

 in perfection, that fcAV haA'e an accurate knowledge of its character. That is the Eeurre 

 d'Aremberg, and in its Acinous spirit it makes a nearer approach to spirited grapes than 

 any other fruit. He now appreciates the good and ceases to value the inferior kinds. 



If a person has eaten none but common wild grapes, or ultra natives of the rudest kind ; 

 on trying the best Concords he Avill pronounce them good, and if he has eaten only Isa- 

 bellas that have groAvn so far north that they become black, but not ripe, and then make 

 trial of Concords as mentioned, he Avill express the same opinion. But if he has eaten the 

 Isabella in its best condition, and so freely that the idea of its flavor becomes distinctly 

 impressed, he will say the Concord is poor — not so good as Isabella. If, after these hava 



