13 



same time the fndt'j or ripe portion loses something of its spirit and proportion of 

 sugar. The center has become tender, not from the healthful process of ripening, but 

 from the breaking down of decay, by which it becomes mingled with the better por- 

 tion, greatly to its detriment in spirit and flavor. 



The Northern Muscadine may serve for an example. As the ripening begins, a 

 small portion acquires some degree of sweetness ; but as it progresses, the attachment of 

 the ripened portion flxils, until the berries of the upper portion of the bunch drop from 

 their own weight. The interior soon becomes sufficiently tender, but loses the little 

 animating spirit that it possessed in its best condition. The destructive process in the 

 berries begins soon after the commencement of ripening, and overtakes and arrests it. 

 And the ripening of the bunches also begins with the destructive process close at hand, 

 loosening the berries from the stalks as both proceed. In such cases the term "per- 

 fectly ripe" can not be applied. The Hartford Prolific and Concord are examples, 

 somewhat less marked in this particular, and the Union Village, Isabella, and York 

 Madeira, still less. 



The Union Village becomes often sufficiently tender quite to the center, but never 

 spirited and rich, and the large mass at the center that becomes "buttery" by the 

 breaking down of the coherence by incipient decay, soon diffuses itself through the 

 portion that before was somewhat spirited and sweet, rendering the whole flavorless 

 and unrefreshing. The same conditions take place in regard to all of the others named, 

 and the same may be said of the Hybrids (so called) of Messrs, Eogers. iSTone of them 

 are ever spirited and refreshing, or restorative and animating; but in order to obtain 

 the most refreshment from them, the opportunity must be sought to find the sugary 

 portion at its greatest degree of development, while the central portion remains so firm 

 that it may be quickly swallowed in a coherent mass of acidity without mixing with 

 or diluting the better portion. Those may, therefore, be said to have a point of 

 maturity or best eating condition, but no point of ripeness. 



In direct contrast to these, we may instance the Elsingburg, which is a grape of 

 the richest and purest flavor, ripening perfectly and uniformly from circumference to 

 center, and when ripe it does not lose iis spirit by decay, having but a small propor- 

 tion of cellulose or the destroying principle in its structure. 



At the first period of ripening we find it sugary, but not spicy or animating, and 

 impure ; but at its last or mature stage it becomes pure, rich, animating, and spicy, and 

 the skin, having lost all of its oft'ensiveness, becomes very pleasant to eat. The Diana 

 can not be said strictly to reach the point of perfect ripeness ; for the seeds, which are 

 generally few and small, are always surrounded by a little portion of flesh that is co- 

 herent, though sweet and good. 



Allen's Hybrid reaches the point of perfect ripeness, both at the skin and center, 

 without a grain of allowance. The skin has no unpleasant flavor, and the seeds, not 

 being surrounded with any toughness or acidity, are easily disposed of in eating. 



The lona also fulfills the conditions of perfect ripeness, becoming as sweet, spir- 

 ited and melting at the center as at any other part, and ripening there so early, that it 

 may be said to begin at the center, although the process goes on so uniformly through 

 the berry, that it is difficult to say which portion is in advance. 



This subject has hitherto received very little attention, but it must hereafter be 

 one of the principal points to be considered in the quality of grapes ; for upon perfect 

 ripening, conjoined with purity, richness, and animation of flavor, their value as a 

 fruit will depend. When possessed of these qualities in a high degree, the grape 

 deservedly ranks as the best of fruits, and tastes are rapidly being cultivated to a just 

 appreciation of its excellence. The great defects which were formerly tolerated, 

 because they were thought to be inseparable from the native grape, have no place in 

 the new kinds ; and the work of demonstrating this to our people, when once well 

 undertaken, will be so near accomplishment, that it may be regarded as done, and 

 grapes which, in addition to other great defects, have that of inability to ripen per- 

 fectly, will not long hold rank among fruits. 



