C9 



In estimating the quality of a plant, tlie proper inquiry is not, How large is it? but, 

 In how long a time was it acquiring its size ? We will suppose a plant of three yearg 

 to have only the size of a plant of one year. That of one year, if well grown and 

 perfect, would be valuable, and that of three years worthless; first, because that of 

 three years must have been damngel by defective treatment; second, because its roots 

 must have become quite destitute of fibers, except at their extremities, and no art 

 can restore them. We have remarked, " the vine never naturally feeds twice in the 

 same place." From this comes the need of shortening the roots, or pruning them, as 

 well as the shoots, at planting, and the largest often the most severely. When strong 

 roots of one year are cut back, they readUy send out numerous fibers from the cut 

 ends, which have a tendency to form short-jointed, bearing wood that will not be 

 impatient of restraint. Hence we see the need of transplanting and cutting back the 

 roots of such vigorous vines as are not set in place for fruiting at one year of age. In 

 case of cuttings, this is generally done by the winter frost, and the vine becomes 

 reduced to the state of a catting, nearly, with the difference that surface-wood has 

 become root-wood, and shoots readily. 



Fig S3 



We have said it is very advantageous to have the plants in the fall, near the place 

 where they are to be set in the spring, but they are sometimes damaged by improper 

 treatment during winter. I subjoin a plan by which all hardy trees and vines may 

 be kept without fear of injury. It is well known and practiced by nurserymen under 

 the name of " heeling in," but not always properly carried out by the uninitiated. A 

 very common error consists in only having sufficient depth of covering above the 

 roots, not considering that if the roots are above ground, or nearly so, that the frost 

 will reach much flirther horizontally than perpendicularly. Let them be covered by 

 a mound represented by the curved line above A, reaching some distance beyond the 

 trench, B, so that the water can not run into it. Dwarf pears, peach, anc cherry 

 trees in particular, are safely and very advantageonsly kept in this manner, f nd the 

 advantage of fall planting gained without fear of damage which maj^ befall any of 

 the trees named, if set in place in autumn. Raspberrj' and Blackberry plants, espe- 

 cially, are well kept in this way, and the labor is very little. Sandy soil, and nearly 

 as may be without vegetable mold, is to be preferred. A poi'tion of the filling up 

 must be taken from a little distance, so that no water may be turned towards tlie 

 roots. 



At Fig.83may be seen a trench made in dry soil (so elevated that water runs from 

 it) about twenty inches in depth, and a bank raised by the soil thrown from it. - In it 

 may be seen a vine and a Mulberry tree, both cut back to a length of three feet. A 

 Magnolia also, not cut back. For distinctness they are put far apart, but in practice 

 .may be put near together, fine earth being put into the interstices of the roots. A row 

 of any desired length being put in, and the roots so covered that they are out of sight, 

 another row may be put before, and partl}^ above them, until by repeated rows the 

 irench is filled If there are but few plants, we may suppose onh' the number now 

 in, and that the}' are to be subjected to the greatest severity of freezing. Th^ cover- 

 ing of earth needed will be nearly the same as for many, as may be seen at A, fig. 84 



