WINE-MAKING. 



25 



act merely the best American wine grape, but the best In the world ; 

 and three more years of trial with the same result have served to jus- 

 tify his firm conviction. It is pure, rich, and generously refreshing 

 with a somewhat spicy flavor, and smooth, v.'ith all of the sweetness 

 that can exist in a perfect dry wine. It also makes a sweet wine by 

 Buffering tlie griiijes to become over-ripe or shrivelled. 



The first Deliiware vineyard was planted by Mr. J. E. Mottier, with 

 vines produced by nij'self. He has made wine from it two seasons, of 

 quality gi-eatly surpassing any thing that has been produced in this 

 country, and rivalling the remarkable wines of foreign countries in 

 parity, refinftment, richness, and that exquisite deiicacy of flavor, the 

 whole assemblage of which constitute tlie excellence of wine. It has 

 commanded more than three times the price of the best Catawba, 

 which has heretofore been our only standard both of quality and price 

 fcir native wine, the sugared wines so called not coming under consid- 

 eration when speaking of real wines. 



The price of Delaware wine when made in great quantity will proba- 

 bly be double that of Catawba, until the latter will nearly disappear 

 from cultivation, and only be continued for a few special tastes, and 

 for special purposes as the Cape now is in the hands of Mr. Jlottier. 



Tlie Diana produces wine much more refined and delicate than the 

 Catawba, and with many good judges it will for constant daily use fully 

 equal Uie Delaware. It ripens so mucli earlier than the Catawba that 

 It may be grown at least two degrees farther north, and it is much 

 more certain in its crops. These two constitute the only wine grape 

 that have been at present tested for the latitude of New- York, extend- 

 ing not much more than two degrees farther north except in specially 

 favored localities. 



The principles of wine-making are very simple, and the conditions 

 are easily fulfiJled after the proper grapes for the purpose are obtained. 

 Good wine is simply the juice of grapes, fermented, without any addi- 

 tion or any change except that produced b.v the fermentation and the 

 natural effects of time in ripening and developing the inherent excel- 

 lences that are already in the fruit. The juice consists of sugar, tar- 

 taric acid, and glucose or ferment in large proportions, and other 

 matters in small quantities, of which cliemistry takes cognizance, be- 

 sides those which constitute the specific excellences of different kinds, 

 and which chemistry has not yet been able to recognize. Of the Eu- 

 ropean grapes which are ail descendants from those that originally 

 came from Asia, there are many varieties that are wine-producing ; 

 that is, their juice after undergoing the vinous fermentation under 

 proper conditions, remains in the form of a beverage called wine, for a 

 long time, without undergoing the acetic fermentation by which vine- 

 gar is produced. But there are only a few out of the great number 

 that have become distinguished for the excellence of their produce 

 80 as to be designated best varieties. These best varieties under dif- 

 ferent^ names are generally very widely disseminated, but a few by 

 particular requirements of climate are restricted to particular locali- 

 ties. 



All grapes that make wine are distinguished by what is called rich- 

 ness of flavor ; that is, by a large amount of tartaric acid, with an 

 abundance of sugar, tempered by the aromatic and other properties 

 which constitute the distinguishing characteristics of each variety. 



The grapes designated as feeble-flavored arc not wine-producing in 

 any country to the extent of furnishing wine for commerce. Among 

 these are the numerous Chasselas varieties and Ilamburgs. Grapes 

 which Iftve a large portion that remains unripe, which unripeness con- 

 fii'ts of malic acid, such as our natives generally, with their thick skins 

 ;ind tough centers, are unable to produce wine. 



The Isabella, although not a wine-making grape, approaches more 

 nearly to the production of wine than any of our natives of that class, 

 leaving Concord, Hartford Prolific, Northern Muscadine, and all of the 

 family quite out of consideration for th.at purpose. 



The York Madeira is intermediate between the Isabella and Catawba 

 In spirit and refresliment, and is of the lowest grade that can furnish 

 real wine. The Catawba, under proper conditions, is distinctively wine- 

 producing, and possesses a high degree of ext^Bwice marred by some 

 defects. Vp 



These excellences or defects vary greatly accordin;; to the conditions 

 of climate and season under which the fruit is produced. In the lati- 

 tude of Cincinnati, where the seasons are distingui.sheJ for high tem- 



perature, long-Continued and dry, the thickness of skin and unripe 

 portion almost disappear, being elaborated into ex tellcnce tliat is sus- 

 pended in tlic juice. Under such conditions the juice for the best Ca- 

 tawba wine is produced ; but in the latitude of Cincinnati, in unfavor- 

 able seasons, the wine is inferior from the best attended vineyards, and 

 in those which are neglected, it has no enduring ability without adul- 

 teration. Under such circumstances, sugar, or alcohol, or bf>tli are 

 added, and a production results that is sold under tlie name of "S.'eet 

 Catawba." 



In localities where the climate is less favorable the excellence tliat 

 would come from the perfect elaboration of the portion near the skin 

 and at the center, being absent, the product ncvtr results in real wine, 

 and is never offered for sale unadulterated. For latitude and climate 

 less favorable than that of Cincinnati, earlier ripening varieties of the 

 rich, wine-producing kinds are required. Such kinds as Concord, Hart- 

 ford Prolific, Crovcling, etc., never become wine-producing in a-iiy lati- 

 tude where they have been tried. When taken to Cincinnati and fur- 

 ther south and west in the state of Missouri, nothing that is capable of 

 giving any of the benefits and enjoyment of generous wine has yet 

 been produced from them. 



Good wine-producing fruit must first be obtained thoroughly ripe, 

 all of the imperfect berries being rejected. The crushing of the fruit 

 must be thoroughly and evenly done without breaking the seeds. Very 

 strong pressure is required so that all of the juice may be obtained, 

 and this is not merely necessary for t!ie purpose of saving the juice 

 but the properties of the grape that are obtainable by the severest 

 pressure, as well as " the first running," are necessary to produce the 

 best wine. The different qualities of juice are obtained from each 

 quantity that goes upon the press, called " first," " second," and " third 

 pressing ;" and these three " pressings " or "runnings," in the propor- 

 tions in which they come from the best grapes are necessary to produce 

 the best wine. The first running will soonest mature to become drink- 

 able, but lacks both richness and endurance. The last pressing, if 

 kept sep:irate makes but very poor wine, although equally important 

 to the whole composition. 



A thorough fermentation is required in a pretty equable temperature," 

 which must be neither above nor below certain degrees. Fermentation 

 will not take place with sufficient energy to make wine at a tempera- 

 ture below sixty degrees, and the quality of grapes must be very good 

 and rich in sugar that can sustain a temperature above eighty degrees. 

 For furnishing these conditions a cellar is required with the means of 

 regulation so that the efl'ects of sudden cold shall not be felt in check, 

 ing the action which should be continuous, nor the effects of too grest 

 heat whicli will damage or destroy the wine by too energetic action. 



With a cellar two-thirds under ground, having abundant means of 

 ventilation or confinement of the atmosphere, and sheltered from the 

 direct action of tlic sun, these conditions are easily furnlslicd. There 

 are two different plans for managing the juice during ferment«tioa : 



/ 



Plate No. 24. 



