EQUIPPED FOR AN ARCTIC CRUISE 35 



kayaks, or skin canoes, in which the Eskimos hunt seals 

 and walrus during the spring and autumn months, when 

 there is considerable ice in the water. By thus fastening 

 their outer garment to the little boat, the natives are 

 perfectly secure against dampness, and are able to perform 

 extraordinary feats in rough water in their frail crafts, 

 even to capsizing and righting themselves on the other 

 side. A well made garment of this kind, which would 

 completely cover a man down to his knees, weighs only 

 a few ounces and is most convenient to carry in the far 

 north, where every man has to take upon his own back all 

 the things w^hich are necessary for him to use in living for 

 days or weeks away from a base of supplies. 



The town of St. Michael is one of the oldest settle- 

 ments in Alaska, built on the island of the same name, 

 and is the best harbor near to the mouth of the Yukon 

 River, from which it is sixty miles distant. The town, 

 originally foimded by the Russians as a trading post, 

 has fallen into the hands of the Northern Commercial 

 Company, which practically owns it. It is the head- 

 quarters for Alaska of this large corporation, which deals 

 in furs obtained from the natives, supplies them and white 

 settlers with provisions and other goods, and operates 

 the only important hne of boats plying regularly on the 

 waters of the lower Yukon River. The town is pic- 

 turesquely situated, and rises gradually from the beach 

 to a slight elevation back of the docks, at which the 

 steamers land. 



Several stores appeared to be in fairly flourishing 

 condition when we were there, but the town contained 

 at most only a few hundred inhabitants. A considerable 

 number of abandoned river steamers had been drawn 

 up on the beach facing the outer harbor to end their days 



