280 HUNTING IN THE ARCTIC 



Baranof Islands lay, however, the entrance to the town 

 of Sitka. The passage of Peril Strait, turning the north 

 end of Baranof Island, was spectacular. The current 

 raced around corners at an alarming speed. We seemed 

 to make little headway past the land at times, but event- 

 ually came to dock in the rarely beautiful island-dotted 

 harbor of Sitka. 



The wild heart of Baranof, the old Russian Governor, 

 chose well when he fixed his residence upon this lovely 

 spot. For practical purposes it was more accessible to 

 Siberia than any other in southeastern Alaska, and its 

 port was admirably sheltered by Kruzof Island and the 

 numerous rocky patches that showed above water. In 

 natural beauty it was unrivaled. Mount Edgecumbe 

 raised its white cone eternally opposite the town and the 

 great wooded hills of Baranof Island clothed the slopes to 

 the water's edge. 



On a httle knoll commanding the harbor the governor 

 of the Russian Company fortified a castle and lived out 

 his turbulent fife. Upon the site now dwelt Professor 

 Georgenson, the government's expert in charge of the 

 more peaceful arts of agriculture in the territory. 



Sitka remained the capital of Alaska for nearly forty 

 years after its purchase from Russia. Then the course 

 of trade left it apart from the currents of activity, to 

 drowse away in its present beauty and past importance. 



Again we went through Peril Strait and this time 

 three large porpoises played for miles under the prow of 

 the ship. They swam up past the cutwater like a cat 

 scratching its back, turning on their sides and showing 

 the white belly. Then with powerful up and down 

 strokes of their graceful tails they went ahead a few 

 fathoms to dive and repeat the sport. 



