BULBOUS PLANTS. 87 



These bulbs are not common and should be more grown, not for cut- 

 ting, as the flowers are not suitable for this purpose, but for pot plants. 

 The leaves, even by themselves, are very attractive, being broad, rich 

 green, and spotted with brown. The flowers are greenish red and yel- 

 low, arranged in spikes. Small bulbs should always be saved and 

 grown on, as they increase in size quickly under cultivation. 



LILIUM — Many species and varieties of Liliums are grown for the 

 ornamentation of the border in Summer and Autumn. As a rule, they 

 prefer light and well-manured soil, and a position partially shaded from 

 the sun. To lessen the necessity of frequent watering the plants should 

 be well mulched after the growths are a few inches high. The species 

 used so much for forcing in pots is known as L. longiflorum, a native of 

 China and Japan. There are at least two kinds; the best known 

 and quickest in blooming being L. Harrisii, said to have come originally 

 from Japan, but largely grown in Bermuda, whence the bulbs are 

 obtained. The bulbs should be potted as soon as procurable, and 

 plunged in a frame with a bottom of sifted cinders; the plunging mate- 

 rial should be cocoanut fiber, leaf soil, or thoroughly-rotted hotbed 

 material. This precaution works well in maintaining an equal state of 

 moisture in the pots without the necessity of frequent waterings. To 

 prevent the sun drying the surface of the soil enough covering of loose 

 stable litter should be given. Remove the plants indoors on the 

 approach of severe weather. For earlj* forcing the pots may be placed 

 directly on the bench of a cool greenhouse, and precautions taken to 

 keep the soil in an equably moist state, avoiding either extreme. These 

 bulbs should also be covered with some light material to prevent bak- 

 ing. The pots used should be small enough, so as to provide for a shift 

 into 6 and 7-inch sizes as the plants require it. Much better results are 

 thus obtained, because roots are formed on the stem of the Lily above 

 the bulb, and often above the soil, when they are planted directly into 

 their flowering pots, and especially when they are planted with the tops 

 of the bulbs level with the surface of the soil. So it will be seen that a 

 shift given after the plants have made considerable headway will work 

 advantageously in supplying new rooting material, not only for the 

 roots already formed in the soil, but for those forming on the stem 

 above it. In potting put one large piece of broken pot, concave side 

 down, over the hole in the bottom, and over this some half-decayed 

 leaves, not moss, as the latter retains too much moisture at the bottom 

 of the pot; ram the soil moderately firm. The soil should have good, 

 fibry loam, enriched to about one-fifth of its bulk with well-rotted stable 

 manure; this, with the addition of some broken-up charcoal, is as much 

 for the purpose of keeping the soil open as for feeding. The Aphis is one 

 of the worst enemies of the Lily when grown Indoors, and the condi- 

 tions favorable to its increase should be guarded against— keeping the 

 plants in perfect health is the best preventive measure. Some of the 

 things to be obviated are sudden changes in temperature, chilly 

 drafts, soil too wet or too dry. Fumigating or vaporizing with 

 tobacco must frequently be resorted to whenever the Aphis makes its 

 appearance. 



