128 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 



ner the best material for cuttings is formed on the flowering branches of 

 the Carnation. They are found in the axils of the older leaves, and 

 should be taken when they are from two 2 to 3 inches long. 



Treatment During Rooting— The leaves of the cuttings are sometimes 

 shortened back at the tips, but this is immaterial, and the practice has 

 arisen probably through a desire to have the batch look uniform in size 

 and to economize space. Each cutting should be dibbled in by itself, to 

 insure perfect rooting conditions; but by making a cut in the sand with 

 a small, flat trowel, guided by a narrow strip of wood placed and held 

 firmly against the last row of cuttings (this precaution will prevent the 

 loosening of the sand next the cuttings by the action of the trowel), the 

 operation is hastened. The temperature should be from 50 to 55 de- 

 grees at first, increasing to 60 degrees later on. After rooting has com- 

 menced examine the cuttings so that potting or boxing may be completed 

 before the roots get weak in the sand. It may safely be commenced, 

 when the roots are three-quarters of an inch long, and finished before 

 they are over I14 inches. After the cuttings are potted, or boxed, keep 

 them shaded for a time, gradually giving them the benefit of full sun- 

 shine and an abundance of air. Before planting out time they should be 

 removed to a cool frame. The soil may be made up of loam, leaf mould 

 and sand. 



Planting in the Field— In this locahty the plants are safe out in the 

 field by the end of March, but climatic conditions are the only safe guide 

 for different localities. The ground is previously prepared by manuring, 

 and plowing and harrowing, and the^ plants set out 15 inches apart 

 each way, or 15 inches apart and 3 feet between the rows, according to 

 the method of cultivating. Let the plants be in the ground some time 

 before getting their first pinching. Cultivating must be assiduously 

 practiced during their stay in the field. It serves three purposes: Keeps 

 the roots cool, prevents loss of water by evaporation, and discourages 

 the growth of weeds. Flower shoots are nipped out as soon as they 

 appear until the plants have made suflacient growth, or a short time 

 before they are removed to their flowering quarters. 



Lifting and Planting — This is done at different seasons, sometimes 

 early, but usually in September. In some soils it is difficult to lift with 

 a ball; in others, easy. Some growers shake the soil from the roots, 

 no matter in what soil plants have been grown. As the Carnation is 

 rapid in forming feeding roots it is easy to understand why it is desirable 

 to have the roots entirely in the most favorable soil, such as that with 

 which the benches should be filled; but the safer and more logical 

 method is to have a moderate amount of soil accompanying the roots 

 from the field to the bench. When the plants are lifted without soil 

 clinging to the roots they should be protected from the drying influence 

 of the atmosphere as much as possible. As soon as lifted place them in 

 a receptacle, from which they do not have to be removed until they are 

 planted in the bench soil. Put the roots about the same depth in the 

 bench as they were in the soil from which they were taken; make mod- 

 erately firm; water well and shade for the first few days. Use a shade 

 which is easily removed. A solution of freshly mixed Indurine may be 



