THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 1 43 



be selected. If none of these are available, erect 

 an artificial one, such as a board fence or corn 

 fodder; in fact, anything that will break the force 

 of wind. For hotbed sash, which are usually 3x6 

 feet, dig a bed 6 feet wide or a little wider than the 

 sash, at least 2 feet deep and as long as wanted. 

 Wall this up with boards not less than i inch in 

 thickness. Common slabs from the sawmill will do 

 as well as better lumber. When a permanent bed 

 is desired, the sides and ends can be bricked or 

 stoned up. The north side should be some 18 

 inches above the surface of the soil and the south 

 side 12 inches, so as to give the sash enough slant 

 to throw off the water easily. 



" Across this frame, every 6 feet of the width 

 of the sash, fit in a 2 x 4 scantling, adjusted so that 

 each sash laps halfway on it. These scantlings 

 are to support the sash. If stone or brick is used, 

 these crosspieces should be set in the wall as it is 

 put up, or a wooden sill should be fitted on the 

 brickwork. The walls should be 5 feet 9 inches 

 apart inside, if a 6-foot sash is used. This will 

 allow the sash to rest at top and bottom. If wood 

 is used for the walls, strong stakes should be driven 

 3 or 4 feet apart to hold the wall in place. 



" To make the beds for planting seed it is neces- 

 sary to have fresh, strawy stable manure. This 

 must be well shaken up and then made into a com- 

 pact heap under shelter when possible. It should 

 be left in this condition until thoroughly hot, but 

 not long enough to burn and become whitish. In 

 the bottom of the bed spread wet straw, old hay, 

 or leaves a few inches thick. Then put on the hot 

 manure evenly and tread down firmly to the depth 

 of 18 or 24 inches. After it is firmed place on it a 

 layer of good, friable, loamy soil about 6 inches 



